I still have my third row seats in and don't plan on removing them. I'm looking for some kind of cargo cover to fit the very back area which would hide stuff underneath it. I'd be open to either a retractable type or a solid panel type, either one would be fine. I can always fab something up...
Yup, CO2 is great for shutting off running engines in a hurry if you can't access or find the ignition. Dump a CO2 extinguisher in the air intake and it's going to shut off. Have never tried that with Halon or the Element extinguishers, but the Halon at least should work. Not sure the Element...
Yeah, the Element extinguishers aren't great on open fires like outdoors grass fires and such. Where they do work well is on enclosed fires like engine compartments, kitchen cabinets and underdeck boat fires, that kind of thing. Also safer on electrical fires than a water extinguisher, and make...
Honestly, unless you really hate them or at least have a decent budget for this project I'd just get another set of what's already on there. You will be spending a lot more than the purchase price of those units to change them out.
How about trying Raptorliner or some other urethane coating on the axles then? I'm thinking it would be better over paint than under it, but that textured finish wouldn't show rock chips and such and touch ups would be pretty painless. Just a thought, as I've never heard of it used that way. I...
How about a 2JZ-GTE swap? Get you some real powah!
Actually that would be a very interesting possibility, but not for a rig anyone wanted to just flip. But I'd sure like to see a Supra powered 80, that'd be seriously cool!
For the bumper only, probably? But if you want to pull from the hitch- particularly if you want it to take the force of a recovery- then I wouldn't trust a through-bolt setup. You'd be hard pressed to be able to tighten it enough without distorting the frame I'd think, as the regular setup...
I have a similar problem with one of the nuts in my front frame. I have already chiseled the old nut out and am trying to figure out a work-around since it is one of the nuts for the bolts that hold my plow frame on in the winter, so it kinda really needs to be there. I may drill and tap a hole...
Just says "notice the "K" and "O" for orientation." I'm too late for that, my stack has already been mixed up and I need to put them right again. ( :doh:) So do the 'O's and 'K's face each other like 'OO' and 'KK' then? Or is it 'OK' and 'OK', or how is it supposed to be?
I had mine finally go at 270,000. The main bushing was shot and the entire fan shaft was wobbling, but it wasn't leaking. I don't know how it was still holding water but it didn't leak a drop. Amazing design.
You're going to want to commit to some kind of underbody annual maintenance like Fluid Film , Woolwax, NH Oil, or similar. The salt and calcium chloride up heah is literal murder on vehicles. Ospho is good for treating rust, as is Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Eastwood also makes a specialized...
I yanked mine years ago and it hasn't caused any issues, but apparently there are several different types? I don't even remember what type mine was. I don't miss it.
Somebody here before was having a similar problem and it turned out to be a faulty immobilizer circuit in the alarm system. You might try searching for that here, the box is going to be either under the driver's seat or in the driver's kick panel. His problem was due to corrosion in the alarm...
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator is also very good and long lasting. They also make a frame paint that comes in cans with built in extension nozzles for getting into tight places like inside the frame and body panels. That might work well to get inside the hatch voids- just drill a hole, spray the...