LANDTANK caster plates for 80s (1 Viewer)
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Landtank...are your caster plates used for a 4" lift.?? I currently have a 4" lift BUT I have Christos 1st generation control arms....and it still wanders. Are your plates for my setup...or are different bushings needed instead ?
airlaird
airlaird
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- #3
I used these plates on my Slee 4" lift with stock arms and stock bushings. I am however very loaded. I'm not sure what 1st gen Slee arms are. Do they adjust for caster or not.
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- #4
Seemed to have been dropped from the list
I have a 93 FZJ80 with "J" springs front and rear.There is a 2" spacer in front. I have an ARB bullbar and Warn 9500xp up front. There is a simple wood platform in the rear for drawers.
Do I need to take the cruiser in to get numbers or can you set up the plates from this info?
Thanks
Lowell
Do I need to take the cruiser in to get numbers or can you set up the plates from this info?
Thanks
Lowell
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- #6
they have been all drilled the same. This sets up the pinion angle for a DC shaft and rotates the axle to where a stock tie rod just clears the arms. My guess is that you would be a little light on caster from the factory specs. especially if your hub center to fender flare is more than 24" on the front.
I'm back
Rick...man I'm sorry I never replied back to you in my post back in June. I have no idea if Christos 1st gen are adjustable...but NONE are adjustable are they?? I want to get your kit but your brackets fitting on Slee's arms are the issue. I guess no one that has bought your'e kit had Christos control arms?
airlaird
Rick...man I'm sorry I never replied back to you in my post back in June. I have no idea if Christos 1st gen are adjustable...but NONE are adjustable are they?? I want to get your kit but your brackets fitting on Slee's arms are the issue. I guess no one that has bought your'e kit had Christos control arms?
airlaird
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- #8
not that I'm aware of but the obstacles for the stock arms and his are the same as far as fitting around the axle. The problem is with the diff side as the axle housing is the largest there. I'm relatively sure that using my plates with his arms should be problem free as far as fitting, it's just whether or not his arms rotate the axle for some caster correction and that coupled with my plates might give some vib problems or tie rod interference.
The only way to go about this is to lay both arms on top of each other and see how they line up.
OK, gotcha..
..I'm thinking I may need his bushings. Thankyou for the info
airlaird
..I'm thinking I may need his bushings. Thankyou for the info
airlaird
maybe a dumb Q from a non 80 owner.... i see how the plates mount but i'm not really sure whats going on. i understand your turning the axle, but i'm not really getting how its doing it cause it looks like the new holes are still where the factory holes were.
thanks in advance for putting up with me.
thanks in advance for putting up with me.
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- #11
If you look closely at the 2nd picture you'll see that the new holes are offset from the originals. That crescent shaped piece is the pin in the plate that locks it into the bracket originally.
Because I'm moving both the front and rear hole position it's more efficient than just moving one so the new position is not that far from the original one.
so in the second pic the factory holes are the ones just visible above the new ones? i knew thats what you were doing but the 3rd pic threw me a little cause everything looks in place, but now i can see how the arm sticks out of the factory bracket a bit,,,, novel approach to the fix, thanks man.
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- #13
TTT
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- #14
I had to order more plates today and there was an increase in manufacturing.
The current cost is $160.00 + 15.00 S&H
The current cost is $160.00 + 15.00 S&H
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- #17
needing these plates over bushings depends on how much lift you get out of the springs. Advertised height is based on a certain amount of additional weight to a stock truck. So the 2.5" would be more if you are stock.
The plates have a pilot hole already in them and you just need to drill out those to 5/8". A Milwaukee right angle drill is used when drilling the brackets with the knuckles in place.
The end result is roughly 5* change in you caster. So the best bet is to install the springs and have a caster sweep done so you know where it is. The factory spec for caster is 2*-4* and with your numbers from the sweep you can determine if these plates are for you.
The plates have a pilot hole already in them and you just need to drill out those to 5/8". A Milwaukee right angle drill is used when drilling the brackets with the knuckles in place.
The end result is roughly 5* change in you caster. So the best bet is to install the springs and have a caster sweep done so you know where it is. The factory spec for caster is 2*-4* and with your numbers from the sweep you can determine if these plates are for you.
So I have OME CC bushings with heavys and I made 1.5" steel spacer on the top spring perches. Do you think I can run these plates with the OME bushings, or do I need stockers again? I figure I need at least 4* more. I don't have current numbers, but I was 0.2* BEFORE the spacers.
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- #19
You will need to go back to stock bushings to run these plates. The OME bushing plate combo will have interference issues with the axle bracket and severe contact of the tierod and control arm not to mention a driveline angle that might never be vib free.
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- #20
I edited the original post as using an install kit is no longer necessary. These plates can be installed with a set of stock length drill bits and a Milwaukee right angle drill.
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