Recent content by ZRotheohv

I'm trying to do it the "right" way since I've heard rumors that cops will track out of state license plates. From what I've heard, it's only legal to have an out of state car here 6 months per year.

Hello! I am in the process of moving to California (one of the few not LEAVING the state) from South Dakota, and I'll be bringing my JDM 10/87 BJ74 with me. I bought it in 2012 in Chiba, Japan, and had it imported the exact month it turned 25. Since then it's been registered and titled in SD...

I'm in the process of getting my block ready for the machine shop, and while taking the timing cover off per the FSM, it says to "check thrust clearance of oil pump drive shaft gear" (Step 15, Page EG-91). The reason I'm taking the block out is because it lost oil pressure and ruined crank...

Disregard... I bought a nice electric corded impact wrench from Harbor Freight, threw on the 14mm impact socket, and those suckers came off easy!

I pulled my engine by itself (didn't pull the trans), and it's now hanging from the hoist. In order to put it on a stand, it looks like I have to remove the flex plate, but the crank keeps moving. Is there a standard way of jamming it so it doesn't move? The FSM shows simply taking out the bolts...

I've searched around and it looks like no one that offers a rebuilt 1mm over bored short block for sale... Does anyone provide this service? I obviously have a core...

Yes there are quite a few of them in there

Well the search is over for the knock I guess... The engine's coming out! Would the crap in the oil pickup be responsible for the low oil pressure? It's a lot of stuff in there but I'd think the pressure wouldn't fall to zero. Unless as it's running it keeps pulling more and more stuff up to it...

Oh, and when I separated the intake manifold, all of the alignment dowels were still there. Thanks for the idea though!

Until then I'll probably just go crazy and start tearing things down... So I borescoped my valves, and it didn't have the glaring resolution I was hoping for. Here are my #1 intake valves: They're definitely not wide open, but I can feel a good bit of air coming out of there at about...

Yea the leak down didn't make sense to me either. I think the harbor freight leak down tester might be a little... testy... I did use the compression test hose to attach my air compressor to the spark plug hole and it turns out one of the #1 intake valves is stuck open. Air pours out of the...

Ah interesting about the metal... I would have thought they were some kind of carbon steel to resist the wear, but it looks like the babbitt metal wears in to make little spaces for the oil to hang out. I learn something new every day! Speaking of that... While I wait for the lab results, I did...

Is the bearing material not steel? Or is it a non-magnetic alloy? The fact that none of the pistons have ANY kind of play in them and the the knocking noise seems to be in the front of the engine (measured by using a stethoscope) plus the fact that there is no metal in the oil leads me to...

Do you mean jack up as in ruin, or jack up as in raise with a hydraulic jack? Ha ha... The answer to both is... not that I know of!

So I did a few more tests, and after taking multiple samples of oil out of the pan (filling up a small plastic folger's can) and running a magnet through it, I found absolutely no metal shavings. There were also none on the drain plug magnet. I also did the screwdriver test in the video I...