Recent content by Woofythewolf

Yeah that was me being dumb on my phone at 2am, I hope my more serious response was more helpful.

Damn, I'll have to blame that on the little phone screen lol. It's obvious looking at the desktop. I doubt the diesel would be sensitive to a torn intake tube, I think the 4.2 is mechanically injected? Maybe somehow power is getting to the torque converter lockup solenoid when shifted into...

Edit: I was responding seriously, but I realized this is a word-for-word copy paste from another forum in 2017? The number 1 result on google for "1996 4200 VX"? https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/369751-Landcruiser-80-series-4200-VX-1996-Auto

Great to hear, I'm probably going to replace that as PM. I have an auto so nowhere near as critical, but brakes are important.

Sounds like a bad check valve, in US models it is PN 44730-28010. You'll also want the grommet, PN 90480-24015, and it just sticks into the brake booster itself like a PCV. I'm guessing the Australian part numbers won't be any different, but that is just a guess.

That guy appears to have learned to write from one of those AI chatbots. It appears to be set up to make auto generated messages summarizing previous messages in a thread, notice that it basically copied your message from June 4th... This was the thread that confirms he's definitely a bot...

I had a "right under my feet" very worrying clunk develop while I was offroading in the desert, to the point I pulled off to try and fix it. This was maybe 1000 miles after new bushings in the entire front end on a stock height vehicle. The solution: tighten the body mount at the back of the...

Only a few random items are on sale, and you don't know which ones until you open the page. A bit annoying since their site is a bit slow right now, probably because of the sale. For example, 4.37 front gears are also on sale, but not the rears. Or maybe it was the other way around, but you get...

I put a BOSS BCP62-RC in my 95, $205 on amazon while being one of the name brands and coming with a backup camera. It's got a volume knob, wired carplay, 2 camera inputs, I think decent audio with 11 band EQ, and just plug N play with the metra toyota harness kit that doesn't use the factory...

The compressed one will do a better job scraping junk off the ball so there's less for the rubber seal to deal with.

IMO a carplay or android auto radio is the best way to go, you get a bigger screen than your phone and it just automatically connects when you get in the car with the wireless kind. The bigger reason is that it makes all the apps really big and easy to use in a moving car, which your new phone...

Just out of view to the left of your section view is the reason #2 won't work, there is a flange bushing that runs against the shoulder of the CV joint to be the wear surface preventing the CV from coming outwards. Why toyota didn't put another snap ring or something on the inside of the drive...

I had to remove mine maybe 8 years ago since it would rapidly drain the battery, I was able to just put a jumper in one of the relay sockets in the driver footwell to make everything work like normal. I'll see if I can take a picture tomorrow.

The head doesn't appear to be rounded off or anything, any particular reason you're replacing it? Stripped it?

Yeah AFAIK the factory unit is already a dual 8"+9" booster, so it's a bit scary that they might be selling a non-double diaphragm as a replacement. Just cause it bolts in from a toyota truck doesn't mean it's right... Then again I may have read that wrong somewhere. If correct, the hydraulic...