Recent content by WIP77FJ

I will try to keep an eye on it, I figured I need a new housing anyways and want to go full-float at some time so might as well try it and save some money till then. Small update, it went in pretty gingerly with a rubber mallet added a c-clamp and it bottomed out. However I was still short a...

I appreciate the prompt reply, I will try the C-clamp. How I found out it was the housing was when installing the driver side axle I got the splines to engage well and it would go half-way then bind up, at first I thought it was that the splines had picked up some gunk in the tube. After...

Sorry to revive the dead thread but I am going through this right now, same model Koyo bearings as well. Rebuilt my 3rd member with a locker and put in new wheel bearings. Found out my long sided axle need to be replaced, bought a new Nitro unit and it will not go into the new bearings. My old...

Yes this is what I've been running 2 years now. No problems as a DD I have aftermarket headers if that makes a difference.

38/38 Weber Carb Kit for Land Cruiser - JTOutfitters <weber I run on a '77 engine Weber Carburetor Intake Manifold Adapter Toyota Land Cruiser 1F 2F FJ40 FJ60 1PC - JTOutfitters <"adapter" I got but don't really need iirc. You can choose a linkage or wire connection, I have a linkage and it...

Vid of the setup

I will tomorrow morning, maybe even a vid. If y'all are nice enough to me. :grinpimp:

A month ago before all this happened 94+ temps, it never got this hot. Edit: I'll try to be a bit more clear as I understand trying to comprehend a full story without all the details can be more than trivial. 9 months ago I was driving home on the highway and my alternator/waterpump belt...

Down the line I'm planning on a motor swap 4bt-6bt haven't made up my mind. After I get my degree. To the purest, the P.O. has done some pretty dodgy work and there isn't a whole lot that's OEM left. I'm just confused about how my fan setup would suddenly stop cooling it well. I bought it with...

If I don't figure out what caused this in the first place, whether it was a slipping belt or not, whats to prevent the same from happening with a OEM unit(I.E. clogging it), that costs more than an aluminum one? So if my aluminum one got clogged up cause a belt broke and boiling water what is...

The fan is a pull fan mounted on the back of the radiator, it moved plenty of air before this, and cooled it plenty. I had been DD'ing this setup for about 9 months now. I'm trying to deduce what has changed. "4-Row Core | Cools up to 600hp | Polished Tanks Due to these tanks being thicker...

I think this is what's happening, lots of similar stories on the web with "new" radiators. I'll call it and drain all the coolant to look in the rad if no bubbles come out tomorrow. Maybe a simple homebrew can remedy it. Been reading about driving with vinegar, or hooking up a couple ball valves...

I put the 4 core "best one" on it is thicker than oem, I'll take measurements when I get home. I had to grind some of the mount so it would actually fit. I'm thinking the fan also isn't moving enough air I'll try to measure the volts for it.

Update: Today I burped the system again, this time on a hill on stands. Probably about 30 deg. of slant. Got quite a bit of air out, didn't need to add any coolant however because as the fluid expanded as it heated up, it was enough to keep up with the air coming out. I did not unscrew the block...

How would you do that? I'm assuming remove the temp sensor from the block and just let the fluid wash out? How do you know you got all of it?