Recent content by western flyer

Wow!

I rattle-canned the ones on my 40th and they do not look great. I am interested as well. Happy Friday all.

As noted above, dielectric grease (and using OEM wires and boots) is usually your friend here for multiple reasons. This OP stuck boot issue is new one for me. I coat the plug electrodes and adjacent ceramics with dielectric grease, and also put some in the plug-wire boot hole. I also make sure...

Here is a maroon body and dark gray/silver bumpers with bronze wheels (pic stolen) so you can see a similar combo. Note that some of bed liners are very hard to clean.

If you can not find the OEM assemblies then I can recommend considering Depos with HID projectors you install yourself from The Retrofit Source in the low beam location. This takes some research and work (and $), but the HID projectors provide very functional light for actually seeing at...

I like your "Fujiwara Tofu Store (For personal/private use)" Takumi sticker. I was semi-tempted to do that to my white IS200.

I need to know how this turned out...

I did not know I needed these. :)

2X above recommendation by robnicko. I used the cig lighter circuit when I needed switched power with IGN near the dash. Also works on ACC IIRC.

I had something similar happen to me. I got out the newly purchased puller ready to set it up to pull my steering wheel as part of exchanging the existing wheel for one with a new wrap. I gave the wheel very modest tug as a half-hearted attempt to remove it by hand first and it came right off...

I likely understand what you are saying, per some hobby lock-picking experience. On my 80 the R hatch lock does turn quite freely when it does turn with the key. It does not feel gummed up (I have used WD-40 in the key slots annually over the last decade or so to keep them from being gummed up)...

I had a newly cut key not work in the rear hatch lock unless it was extremely wiggled, until the key was a bit worn down. Even now it sometimes needs wiggling to function in the hatch. Extra lubrication in the cylinder was helpful.

Yes, 1.25 amps is quite a low amperage for a large car battery, even more so with a parasitic drain. That charger I recommended can put out a selectable 2, 10, or 20 amps in full charge mode. The smart charger function in that Griots' charger will also tailor the charge curve to lead acid, AGM...

I would expect a strong wind gust could damage the factory rack mounting (rivnuts in the body) with an open awning that is tied down (such as while camping). I also would not trust the factory rack to handle that awning on a series of rough washboard roads. As noted above, the port-installed...

As noted above, use a battery tender on your rig every time it is parked until you figure out the parasitic drain in your 80. Several threads here on how to track down battery drains. This is worth your time to get this knowledge in your head and to get your 80 in order. I used the solar batt...