Recent content by Toyo FJ40

I have the BDS 4" and stock shackles with no shims and never had any problems.

4" lift with a stock steering box or stock power steering box some shocks will hit the drag link rod. When I did my BDS lift the kit instructions say to bend the linkage slightly. It's never hit since

2X on what he said. I have recommended the Kohler Wellsworth for years and have 4 Kohlers in the house now but have been putting in more Totos lately.

There were hoses from the factory that snaked through the firewall and dumped on the ground. they are still available from CCOT Vent Tubes

Man A Fre sold a distributor and carb swap in the 70s using a full centrifical chevy distributor and a webber or rochester carb. They had a split intake for the 4 barrel. I have the distributor and 2 barrel webber on my 72 along with the header they sold at the time. If you have spark at the...

It sounds like you stick shift has poped out of the shifter fork lugs. I would pull your stick out and look into the top of the trans to see what gear your in. You can aline the fork rods with a large screw driver, the center front to back is neutral. Put the stick back in and see if it shifts.

I guess they could have a local law. I've have my 40 inspected for the last 4 years with no doors and never had a problem driving it that way. Kevin

I still think you have a leak in your well or at the check valve at the pump if your losing pressure. I have a 10 gal per min 1 PH pump and was having problems getting to 60 PSI. The problem was a leak at the pump. There was a hole in the barb adapter at the pump so the water was just dumping...

The cast iron log starters I've installed are about 3/4 inch in diameter and the holes are every 1/2 inch on both sides. That said it would be lost in a 7 ft fire pit. A circular burner or one that had the burner pipes coming out like spokes might be better. For a flame that isn't lost in that...

I ran aluminum underground in conduit to the shop and I have a Syncrowave 300 and a mig both on their own plugs. I wanted to be able to put an apartment over the shop in the future which will have it's own 100 sub panel. The service upgrade, new panel in the house , 150 run to shop , outdoor...

If I'm stapling up heat under tile I wait till the backer board or wire is down so I can weave around the nails or screws when I attach the pex.

I did the same thing when I put in my shop. Upgraded the meter box to 400 amp and ran 200 to the house and 200 to the shop. You should run more than you need because you don't want to have to redo it if you buy a new welder or something.

I have the man-a-fre flairs also. My sheetmetal was already cut so I just trimmed it to fit the flairs.

Find a plumber with a jetter drain cleaner. Running hot water through a jetter will remove ice. You need to work from the down hill side. There is heat tape for inside pipe. I've used the heat cables for roof melting to keep gutter drain pipes open. Inside pipe heater

Trouble with suspended pex is you need to put more heat to warm the subfloor and drive the heat through to the finished floor. Under staple or reflector hangers will help because the tubing will be in contact with the subfloor. Last suspended job I did I ended up at 135 to get the heat through...