Recent content by Topoguide

I would be, as this was the start of mine failing. I noticed that the motor was running a little longer at start up, and starting to come on more often. I didn't think too much of it as brakes seemed fine. We left on a 3k mi trip, at the half way mark it was coming on a lot so I flushed the...

I know this hasn't been posted in for a while, but since it is in the FAQ I thought a follow up would be helpful for some. My diff went out and I needed to get on a trip in a few days, fortunately I was able to get it replaced, but apparently this can get you much farther than I was thinking it...

Thanks for the followup @iSpearfish! It was beneficial.

So my front diff just went as well... I have reviewed the FAQ thread by Muddy Bean, read through multiple posts, and watched several videos. All of which leave me with a couple questions. If someone knows the answers I would appreciate any help. After removing the drive shaft I have to do...

Now back to our regular scheduled discussion about the problem of the boiling gas / gas venting issue.

I bought mine with 76k miles on the clock, I took it above 10k ft at about 80k, which is when I first experienced the boiling problem. I was still getting 19 mpg at that point in time, and my LC had been pretty gently used with only regular maintenance performed. Later I found that it must...

I believe that likely adds to it. I don't normally have mine locked either, but it was when my ignition broke. Although when it happened I didn't feel the snap, it just spun. - The old design was thinner in one area and just couldn't handle the torque being put on it.

Since it is a 4C I am guessing this is for your '99, '03+ requires a 4D. If you have too many masters you can not program a new master into the computer. Here is a post with everything that I have found. Someone noted that if the lock actuator is weak that can keep you from programming, but...

Yes. I don't know where my photos went, but the new part is thicker when comparing them. I replaced mine when it was 10 yrs old at 141k miles, have not doubled the time or miles yet... so can't say for sure, but it definitely looked like a better design. Edit: Well it looks like I missed the...

Ethanol in gas (aerated) is definitely a factor. - I was having issues on a trip, hit a state without Ethanol and no problems. The next state that I filled up in had ethanol blend and problem came right back. Everything else was identical, same day, same temps, and similar elevation. History...

Use a heat gun to heat it up first, then it will come right out.

@Otterpop did repairing the caliper(s) fix your problem? I am experiencing a similar issue that I am trying to narrow down. My issue is that after the brakes are applied, and being used to keep it stopped at idle, that the pedal will sometimes go soft. A quick pump and it's fine again.

@knewstance the information is somewhere here on this thread for the part number. The vendor I went through in China is Kysan Electronics.

I did all 5 actuators at 112k, I am now at 201k and have only replaced the driver door again. The replacement of the actuator is quite simple and cheap. If you just use dots of super glue the clamshells will stay together just fine, and if you need to replace them again they will come right...

Nice pics @willbt , and great job catching that moment. My Cruiser just past 200,000 on the road trip we finished up last week. I totally forgot to watch for it... in my defense it was from AZ to NY and back, and we passed the 200k mark on the way back after more than 15 days on the road.