If the shaft and counterweight are still intact, how about cutting a strip of muffler & exhaust leak tape/cloth and wrap the shaft tight, and wedged in there. Maybe some tie wire over that as well.
Yes. 1/2" BSPT. 1/2" NPT has the same thread pitch but taper and thread angle is slightly different. However 1/2" NPT is close enough that you can get buy with it. It's so close that if you purchase 1/2" BSPT online, it just might be NPT anyway. It's pretty hard to tell the difference on 1/2"...
All tapered pipe threads in the head & block are BSPT.
The 1/2" ports in the head can be mistaken for 1/2” NPT since the thread pitch is 14 for both. 1/2" NPT sort of works and I used NPT for years before I knew better.
Take note, if buying 1/2" BSPT from Amazon or eBay, there’s a good chance...
I use a magnetic backup camera to view the pointer remotely and drop the flywheel cover. The flywheel (on my F.5) has holes drilled in around the edge and I use a 7/16" x long bolt with the head cut off to rotate the flywheel viewing the marks while laying on a creeper.
I need to correct myself. I was thinking of the times I’ve pulled my DUI for various reasons and then re-installed the “same” dizzy when the engine rotation didn’t change. “BUT” if you’re changing dizzys, you can’t depend on the dizzy gear’s position matching up with the rotor’s position exactly...
Alternatively, if it ran with the old dizzy then you could simply snap a photo of the rotor position (wherever it is) then match it with the new dizzy installation and not worry where the timing marks are.
I replaced my single stick boot several times after the vinyl deteriorated so this last time, I sewed up my own boot using a high-quality marine vinyl. Maybe you could do something similar. Or even leather like 1911 suggested.
Did your issue begin before, right after, or sometime after the new dizzy & carb install?
Just to be clear, Charlie was referring to the “accelerator pump” inside the carb, and not the fuel pump.