Shocks do not affect suspension geometry. If you did anything to the control arms, ball joints, or tierod ends, I'd say yes. You can get one, but it's a waste of money if you just did shocks.
My truck rode great with AHC...until it didn't. I was 10 miles in the woods when one corner decided to ride the bump stop (after cycling the key and letting it rest for a while, it started to act right). Another time I was in the mountains and another corner decided to be higher than the others...
If you do determine that an adjustment is needed, spray PB Blaster or some penetrant on the adjusting bolt at least a day ahead of time. When I change out my suspension for the Ironman kit, I applied antiseize to the bolt to ease cranking the torsion bars where I wanted them.
I suspect...
The torsion bar on that side is either worn out, or, although unlikely, it just was never adjusted properly. I have also seen a torn mount where the torsion bar meets the lower control arm (there are a few threads in the forum regarding this)
If you have AHC, you have hydraulic adjustable suspension, which would absolutely cause that. It's great when it works*. Do you have a dial and buttons near your gear shifter?
I had a big hole in mine. Found an overhead light on ebay, but still didn't solve the hole issue. I ended up taking a thin piece of sheet metal the same shape as the old dvd player and screwing it to he headliner
Ordered an Eaton E-locker for the rear, Victory 4x4 sliders (I have not seen anyone on here with them yet), & ASFIR full skids.
My wife did not resist at all, actually encouraged...and that terrifies me.
Is your immobilizer light by the radio staying on? If so, there's the problem. There is a guy on here... Medtro is his handle, who makes a fix for it. He has a long write up somewhere