Recent content by Scota4570

I had no idea this actually existed! Restore Your Engine’s Cooling System | CRC EVAPO-RUST® - https://www.evapo-rust.com/restore-your-engines-cooling-system/ Miracle in a bottle? I'm going to try it. I have a larger fan coming too. If it still runs hot I will pull the head. As for...

The compression is from 1 to 6 cylinders, measured with a cold engine, 140, 140, 140, 145, 150, and 148. The points gap was a smidge to small. I also re-gapped the plugs. Then set the timing 4* BTDC with the advance disconnected. Seems to run smooth. Oil pressure is good. IT still has...

The knock started after my father tried to kill the engine in frustration. It was running about 300*. He drove it into a creek. Strange noises happened. I think that was the exhaust manifold cracking. Since then it cooled better. We inferred that something bused loose in the engine cooling...

I found a car club that focuses on straight 6 engines. One of the officers has offered to help me in my quest. We are thinking of buying a long block that is already rebuilt. We are looking for a core to send. Once I have the rebuilt long block, I can swap engines and sell my old engine...

The truck is already converted to the 292. There should be no head scratching. I like the idea of a big high torque low RPM engine. A high revving lower torque V8 seems to me to be less suitable for my style of off road driving. I'll call the crate engine companies and get a feel for them...

My '70, see avatar, has a 1966 Chevy 292 straight 6. That particular engine has always been a problem. It does not cool properly, never did, for 30 years. I suspect clogged coolant passages were not cleaned when it was rebuilt in 1980. It has a possible bearing knock sound under certain...

My '70 has a factory PTO. The running boards are dead level.

I tightened the pinion nut "real tight" holding back with a large pipe wrench on the flange and torqueing the nut with a large socket wrench. The book calls for 160 foot pounds. I probably got close to that with a 2' breaker bar. The pinion bearings are perfectly smooth and run free. As...

This is a new thread that follows up on the first. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-diff-1970-noisy-question.1335018/#post-15411372 I took the cover off the reaf diff on my 1970. Briefly I had a vibration at highway speed in the diff. Tightening the castle nut on the flange "fixed" that...

It sounds like my next step is to drain the diff and check the oil. I am thinking I should search the oil with a strong magnet and see how much metal is in it. Also pull the cover and inspect the gears.

Thanks for the interest and comment. Firstly I am not primarily a mechanic, more a machinist. I play with old cars and maintain them. It is not my main hobby though. So, I have a lot of knowledge gaps. I do enjoy learning new things and working on stuff so here I am. I have never...

You lost me. "Spare 3rd". I called a major vendor of rebuild parts sets for 1970 rear diffs. I was fully prepared to buy all the parts needed on the spot. He suggested checking the castle nut to see if it was loose with out my asking. He suggested tightening it. So, I put all four...

So, if I tighten the castle nut while testing the rotation for binding or roughness, I may be able to reduce the slop and improve the noise an vibration? It seem to me worth a try. I have nothing to loose.

I have too much noise and vibration on the highway. It has for years. It is not a grinding type of thing but a harmonic and out of balance type of thing. My rear diff has about 10* of radial slop on the drive line. The U-Joints are tight. I noticed vertical and horizontal play on the...

Done, Thanks, Scot