Recent content by Phoenix666

https://batteryhookup.com/products/2-3v-20ah-lto-prismatic-cell NOT an affiliate link, just something I saw. Might be useful for those in the USA. May not start a big V8, 500amps alleged maximum, but with minimal voltage sag and AGM being crappy... :)

Nice! Let us know how it goes and what (if any) tests you plan to do with it.

Battery hookup is usually good. I bought my from Ali (can't find the seller, sorry!), they were marked as 35Ah and were a bit under. When tested repeatedly, they gave the exact same results each time, so I was happy enough. I suggest getting them from Ali, providing you do some checks, they are...

No issue to charging to 14.4 to 14.8, other than you lose a bit of capacity. IIRC it was less than 20% on my 35ah 6s setup. No damage to cells basically doing anything "normal". Things to watch out for are 60+C running (as long as there is airflow through your engine bay, plus something to stop...

TL:DR IF you drive every couple of days AND you have a 20+Ah battery (LTO, not SLA) then you don't need to change anything. Do NOT, under any circumstances, mix SLA and LTO (well, get a pro to tell you how to set up the dual batteries, then don't do it) Something else I should have been more...

This is true. I did say that 6Ah was not a lot and have been talking about 20-35Ah LTO, I guess I should have been more specific.

The biggest thing I would worry about is drawing too hard on your alt. My use case means this is not an issue, and you can put a resistor on the alt to reduce the amount of amps it will put into the battery.

Well..... Ah is the total capacity, which is only half the picture. A SLA battery can discharge (safely) at about 3C, give or take. So if you are drawing 300A to start the car, a SLA must have an Ah rating of about 100Ah. The Ah is not as important as the ability of the battery to start a car...

You certainly could. You would be paying twice as much for half the ah, so 4x the cost? Although with the below I would replace the bus bars with something beefier. The current (pun intended) LTO 12v* batteries are insanely priced. Probably still worth it in the long run, but only just. Unless...

Just tested the LTO starter with a LA car battery tester, which is essentially a 100amp load and a voltmeter that has a chart that shows what voltage a (x) CCA battery should sag to. Started at 14.1v as per normal, ran the test for 10 seconds, immediately sagged to 12.5 then stayed there rock...

There are options for a BMS that doesn't carry the current directly, but is able to disconnect the battery. While that would be unlikely, it is an easily accessible option, so I thought it worth mentioning. It is more likely to concern you if you charge your LiFePO4's off an alternator on a...

I would like to mention, as I don't think it was in this thread, and I did not mention it.... There is another way to fry your Alternator. If your BMS cuts the battery from the alternator, there is a possibility that as the load drops dramatically, the voltage spikes massively, thus burning out...

I inadvertently stress tested it today. I had it out to find a fault (loose balancing wire) so I did a capacity test. It came back same capacity as when I put it in, which is even better than I thought it would be. Of course after the capacity test, you charge it back up and drop it in, right...

Added a balancer as above, ordered 2 new boards as I broke the solder patches and had to "dodgy" the on switch... sigh. Been going for 3 months or so, still planning on making another, I have the cells, just made the bus bars and will make some design improvements on this next one. The balancer...

Still running well. Next up is adding a balancer (Heltec), with a voltage sensitive switch, so it only balances over 13.8v In another week or so I will pull it, do some voltage tests on each cell. Probably should lable the cells too :D If everything goes to plan, I will make another, do a...