Recent content by OM617YOTA

Great, thank you. I've been using the clock on my head unit. Next time I go into that area of the dash I'll definitely work on the factory analog clock. I need to get new factory replacement trim clips and tighten up that trim around the hvac/head unit.

My clock "works" but is a few minutes off per day and gets uselessly inaccurate within a few days. Maybe my magnet is loose, still transmitting some movement but not enough to keep time. If you watch that video on YT you can select subtitles in your preferred language. AI generated so not...

Stopped by a salvage yard and grabbed a mirror out of a Scion. Not perfect but bolted right in, plenty good enough for me. Looked like late 90's RAV4 mirrors would interchange too. Ten bucks.

I used to be on a Mercedes diesel forum, see username. Interesting mix of folks there. People who used wheel dollies to load their cars on trailers to go to shows, so they didn't add miles to their cars just getting them in and out of the trailer. They worshiped at the altar of Mercedes...

Been using worm drive clamps for 25+ years now without issue, quite comfortable with them as long as they're quality. Don't overtighten them like most people do. The heater valve was Napa's Balkamp brand, also quite comfortable with that. If OEM had been available 20 minutes away I'd have done...

Somewhat agreed. If an OEM radiator was available I'd have gone that route. Cheap hose clamps are utter garbage, much better ones are available at Home Depot of all places. The heater valve has been fine thus far. Some aftermarket parts are perfectly fine, but if you're buying with cost being...

Hadn't noticed that kind of difference in mine. If it bolts in and everything hooks up, I'm sure it's fine.

I didn't notice a difference in sizing. By diameter, do you mean the water inlet and outlet? 4mm could be enough to be a problem. Mine bolted directly in, OEM hoses fit it perfectly, and it's maintained perfect temperature even climbing mountain passes in 40C weather. AC condenser.

Delo 15w40 Synthetic would be fine too if you prefer to stick with Delo.

Yup that's it exactly. Haven't done so on the 1KZ or Prado, but lots on my 617 Yota swap before just replacing all the hard lines with Gates Barricade hose. Make sure and keep everything clean, keep all the dirt you can out of the hose ends. Recommend a tubing cutter and not a saw for a clean...

Pretty sure there's no in-tank pump and the fuel line is under vacuum up until the lift pump mounted on the IP. I've fixed failed hard lines by cutting off the damaged section, cleaning the outside of the hard line well, slipping standard fuel line over the remaining hard line with no flaring or...

Following this thread with interest, I'll undoubtedly be going down this path at some point. Just hitting 100k miles on my 1KZ. Might have gotten lucky and the head already popped and was already replaced by the previous owner, but not sure how to check that. I've even given serious thought to...

Bottom radiator hose is after the coolant goes through the radiator and gets cooled down, it may not get warm just sitting there at idle. Is your heater blowing warm air? Heater hoses getting warm? If so, coolant flow is fine.

If I'm remembering right, coolant flows out of the top hose to the radiator, bottom hose is return to the engine. That's where I'd put it, top hose. Make sure you purge air from the thermostat area when refilling. Refill from the heater hoses or make sure you have a thermostat with a vent(drill...

Oh man, definitely hear that, been there plenty myself. Mine's a '96 as well, and if(when....) I have the head off, that's another one I wouldn't put the original head back on even if it looks fine when pulled. These earlier 1kz's have 100% incidence of cracking the head. Later heads have this...