Recent content by nabbasi

Year/ model / market would help. I’m familiar with pertronix and have installed 3 or 4 (only 1 in a 40). A Pertronix flamethrower will draw more current. Easiest solution would be to install a relay. Pertronix has a relay for this specific issue.

Linda’s previous owner did the same. Maybe worse. Cardboard backing for his filler on the rockers. That is gorgeous! They did my 1978 box and it’s been fantastic (they’ve also done 1 or 2 others in other vehicles for me). I should have gotten their signature paint scheme!

That looks great! Did you tint the raptor liner?

It’s been exactly 3 months since my last update, and truthfully, it’s because there really hasn’t been much to update. I parked my 100 series on August 1st and Linda has been my daily, heat/ rain/ shine the past few months. This week I finally got around to a few things that were long...

Yep - carb temp sensor. If temps are hot after shut down, it triggers a relay and turns the carb cooling fan on.

JD! I just realized poking around here that I never got back to you after I got back from traveling this summer. You should stop by the shop sometime - a couple of 40s and a 45. Zach and the jeep guys are around too.

Has the plug ever been depinned? Is there any chance that the terminals aren’t properly seated or in the wrong position? It would be odd for all 3 gauges and temp to fail. The blue/ red wire from the fuse panel only powers the fuel, oil, and temp. Lights come from the headlight switch, and...

I have the Trimeki whole enchilada on my ‘78 with EFI. It’s great …excellent quality. I have a full Waldron kit on my 1968 Ford Mustang. It’s great, too. Trimeki is not oem. If Waldron can get you close to oem, their quality is excellent and I wouldn’t be concerned to go that route.

You shouldn’t necessarily read voltage for the sensors. You say you have 12V+ from the LR - which is the 12V+ for the cluster. You said voltmeter - but is it actually an ammeter? I’d start with checking continuity between the sensors and cluster. You’ll want continuity between the oil...

Nothing is really wrong with the master cylinder, but I can’t stand drum brakes, and should have just gone with a later 80s master and already disc brakes. My ‘78 stops well, but the pedal feels awful (very, very light).

What size nuts/ bolts did you use? I have a set of these but (irrationally) hate rivets.

I’ve got a cityracer booster and aisin or advics on my ‘78. If I were to do it again, only thing I’d change is to use an 80 series master. I’m a fan of buying rolls of 3/16 nickel copper and bending / flaring myself. I’ve done prevent before (on things other than Land Cruisers) and they’re...

My vote.

I’m also a huge bilstein fan (have them on my ‘68 mustang, ‘67 fj40, ‘81 Mercedes wagon, ran them in 2 previous vehicles). I have Bilstein 33-062518 on the front, and KYB 343403 Rear Excel-G Shock Absorber for a Toyota T100 on the rear on my 1967 FJ40 with a soft top. I’m running a Monroe...

The rear harness is along the passenger side frame rail. It splits and goes to the right/ pass side taillight, up through the floor for the pass side side marker and license plate lights, and the last split goes across the rear bumper/ crossmember then splits for the driver side rear tail light...