Recent content by Mtntopper

I had big plans for this one, but unfortunately I’ve moved on and this has just been sitting for years. Low, low miles and very OEM correct and complete. I used it as a pattern for making sure I built my FJ45LV as correctly as possible, invaluable for that. Please see the attached thread that I...

Barely any progress. The most recent chapter has been long and frustrating. I tried to set up an Offenhauser twin-carb intake with a pair of SD40's but after trying several configurations and adjustments it just wasn't right. It was no small task assembling the pieces for the Offy intake, such...

Just to clarify, Classic Cruisers has been great. The questionable donk was purchased from a private party, Classic Cruisers just re-seal it for me. In their defense, the engine noises couldn't be heard over the racket of not having an exhaust system. Classic Cruisers then were also really good...

Yes, lots of leg work with only incremental progress. After getting the exhaust system installed, the engine compartment became quiet enough to discover an unsettling low-end thunk in the F135. Didn't even put 5 miles on it before I yanked it and sold it back to Classic Cruisers for a...

I could discuss a trade with this one if you'd like. Looks like the arm is a little shorter than the one you pictured. The field of the glass is in good shape but there are several tiny chips around the perimeter with the largest chip on top left corner of the glass. PM incoming.

I wonder if the floors would be different from a left and right hand drive car. I do know the two sides of a transmission hump are not symmetrical. Have they mentioned anything about dipping or otherwise treating that metal?

Super sweet California beauty right there. Awesome collection of period correct bits too, that is a really good deal. Wish I didn't already have so many projects going...

I don’t think you should see the float level fluctuating. If the bowl is over filling, the float is out of adjustment or the float needle isn't fully seating because of a piece of crud in the float needle/seat area. The fuel level should remain steady in the center of the sight glass at all RPM's.

Are the steel brake lines for an FJ60? If so I would like them, thanks.

Might be cheaper to get a new switch rather than have keys made for your current one. I've purchased a couple of them from @ToyotaMatt over the years...

I had Japanese Auto Service in Wheatridge do a new OEM short block and rebuilt head about a year ago, and I'm perfectly satisfied with their work. That motor they put together just seems to run better and better all the time as it's breaking in. I couldn't imagine anybody doing a better job...

This is the part # for an SD40 rebuild kit:

There should be some out there still, I bought one maybe a year ago. It's a Keyster Kit, I'll post a picture and part number when I get back to the house in about 30 mins.

Just one of the many joys of bringing a non-US spec car into the country. Sounds like your idea of attaching front and rear reflectors with double sticky tape is only part of the solution as you still need powered lights on the sides too. If you could pop a couple holes in the plastic bumper...