Recent content by MrCWineMan

Manual adjust is a no. All creature comforts are operating correctly. Stoped and “rebooted” it went away.

I sprung a leak in mine at about 60k. Rebuild and reinstall was like getting a new car back.

All, Currently I’m (well my wife is) driving through WY with arms fully stretched out because my steering wheel didn’t auto lower and extend. This has been happening with increasing frequency, the usual fix is stop the car, kill it, restart the car, et, voila. But we didn’t catch it...

100%. Not daily but more than once a week.

Okay, I've been digging through all the info I can find and I can't come up with a good answer on the 200 series best practice. In short, should I preemptily swap coil packs at around 100k when I do plugs, or should I sit on it until they throw codes and replace them as they fail? I had a...

So to tag on to @JZelnick above: my BP-51s are in need of a rebuild (the front right is leaking, about 65k miles, etc.). Worth doing or am I better served doing something else new and saving the downtime?

Your first spot is where I put mine!

That is promising!

Any update here?

How do you deal with all the dark tint at night? I have 5% on the back, and had 35% up front, but I couldn’t make it work at night, had to go clear ceramic on the fronts and windshield - is there a trick I’m missing here?

I just did my first set of pads and rotors at 85k - all oem.

Another vote for the Nokian Hakka R3 - they are awesome.

Yep, I have drawers, with a full load in the rear, budbuilt sliders, and an ARB Bullbar with a winch. A higher number increases dampening - so a higher compression number adds resistance to the “in” stroke and a higher rebound number adds resistance to the “out” stroke.

Honestly I jumped my compression up to 9 and rebound at 7 in the front and 9 and 8 in the rear, and it’s been awesome for 95% of what I do.

My card key has never had a metal slide out key, as in I bought it without one, the card is the transceiver that starts the car.