Way over my head too...I spent my whole evening modeling up a pair of knuckles in CAD to compare and took a bunch of virtual measurements, turns out I was onto something but it probably doesn't matter in the real world.
I modeled a passenger side knuckle here and assumed the knuckle steers 40...
Another idea from looking at your pictures...can you ditch the stamped part of the OEM bar on the drivers side and run the cage inside the remaining tubular part of the crossbar as an internal sleeve then tie it into the A pillars with gussets? That'd keep keep you from having to remake all the...
The location of the hole for the drag link rod end seems more critical to me and I'm not sure the aftermarket crossover steering arms get it right. I'm pretty sure the pivot of the ball joint needs to be inline with the knuckle rotation axis for the steering to feel the same in both directions...
These ones had a 3/4" pin that uses the factory 17mm trunnion bearings, they do look very similar to a TG set. I do have another random RHD set I got from somewhere with a 1" pin setup for some early trunnion bearing eliminators...they're very odd parts and look to be machined from solid 3"...
Just looked that part up and I'd agree that it doesn't look trivial...unfortunate cause that'd be a super clean way to do that. I found this guy on YotaTech that sunk his A pillar bars into the factory dash cross bar...maybe that's an option with appropriate reinforcement of the dash bar.
Some measurements, I'm planning on using a spring under setup up front which means I can drop the steering arms down lower...which is the whole reason for this side project. The top of my arms are about 1 inch lower than the top of the highsteer arms.
I'm planning on running the tie rod to the...
Didn't make much overall progress on the truck over the next 2 days but we did make keyed steering arm blanks for the low crossover steering I want to do. These ended up getting machined to a dimensional accuracy that is almost completely unnecessary but it was fun learning more about the...
My dad came out over the weekend to hang out in the shop with me for a couple days. Started with some suspension and steering mockup. I don't have any pictures but I really wanted to use a RHD IFS box I have on the inside of the frame rail instead of the typical box mounted to the outside of the...
What about removing the factory dash bar and moving the mounts for the dash and related components to a new structural bar for the cage that goes in the same spot? I didn't pay super close attention last time I pulled a dash but I seem to remember that crossmember being more or less a tube.
Finished relocating the diff stud holes, dunno what happened but the old holes I welded up got HARD when they cooled. I burned up 2 brand new high quality drills, 2 endmills that were maybe at half their life, and one chinesium tap. Everything fits now though albeit it's a little tight slipping...
Playing with the lathe is exactly it...I still don't really know what I'm doing and this seemed like a good chance to try out the steady rest and practice boring an internal diameter. Plus 1.75" solid round was only $10 for 2 feet of it at the recyclers and they didn't have tube in the right...
While I was procrastinating on the knuckle balls I worked on some other stuff. Somewhere in here I spent a whole day cleaning and organizing the shop again because it was getting out of hand.
Cut the diff cover off the axle.
Make some shackle hangars from solid round bar and some 2x4...
Finally repaired the knuckle ball I damaged yesterday...it didn't take as long as I expected but I'd been studying and thinking though the repair since I damaged it. 3 weeks ago This definitely pushed the limits of my YouTube trained machinist abilities.
Here's the worst of the damage from...