What’s the offset for the threads? From the photo it doesn’t look like it’s centered? Wondering if these would work with my (or most any) bumper if the mount is drilled or if only certain ones would work because of the location.
I still vote used ecu, especially if they’ll guarantee it works. It’s 1/3 the cost. Those parts rarely fail (I’d say never but I guess this scenario would prove me wrong). But I can’t imagine if a refurbished one worked that it wouldn’t last you for the rest of the life of your truck unless...
In this case I’m actually surprised. Normally the shops that quote issues also want to do the work. Were they quoting frame repair? It seems odd they’d reject you for that if they don’t also offer the repair, since what benefit is it to them to reject you otherwise?
I never liked the VA...
Buy the reman, that way you’re only out $655 when it turns out this isn’t the root cause.
Honestly at $655 you can replace it with another reman unit in a few years if it somehow happens to fail again (unlikely) and you’ll still have saved $$$
Rattle can flat black paint and then find a different shop to reinspect. I lived in VA for years… some shops use a microscope and some will honk the horn and flash the lights and slap a sticker on you. If you’re anywhere near Manassas I can recommend a shop that used to be easy to go to…
If you’re not dropping a boat in the gulf and not driving to places that use salt in the winter you don’t need to use fluid film or any other preventative. My one exception would be to put some marine grease on the heads of the KDSS valve as those seem to rust easily and a good marine grease...
I could see this actually. The quick flashing issue isn’t a real failure exactly. There is some sort of self-test happening or some electrical circuit that’s open (or closed) that shouldn’t be when this occurs. It’s not that an ECU would fix this issue exactly, but it might have a different...