Recent content by Layonnn

About 2.5 years ago my fuel gauge started showing empty when I had gas, restarting the truck would sometime fix it. Then the gauge just started showing empty or near empty all the time. Just reset tripometer every time I got gas and filled up before I hit 200 miles. Saw this thread while...

Is there a separate fuse for the power seats (forward/back, recline, etc)? If so, where is it located? I am installing new leather seat covers. I installed both seats, checked function. PS worked fine, went to drivers side and was working then stopped, then both seats completely stopped...

Sound is similar to that in the video and is definitely coming from the motor of the brake booster assembly. Color of fluid is a medium brown-ish. Zero bubbles coming from reservoir, I let the pump prime and watched it for a few minutes. Parts I have arriving today and plan to install are...

Recently started having the brake booster motor make some occasional whining noises. No lights, no change in brake feel, fluid is slightly dark but level is fine. 100 series has 225K miles. Will probably be replacing the brake boost pump (47070-60010). Should I go ahead and rebuild the master...

I zoomed in on those suckers while watching from my phone and yup, there seems to be some play in that poly bushing. That’ll be next on the list to replace as soon as I can figure out what size they are. Thank you for spotting that by the way!

The spots at the hubs, are those pressed on? As in if those are slightly worn can those be semi easily replaced like the front drive flanges? Or does that require removing the pumpkin and removing the shafts? Also thanks for making a sweet product. Snagged one of these right when you started...

The truck was regeared about 30k miles ago to 4.88. The same play before and after from what I remember.

Gears are 4.88 nitro that have about ~30k miles on them.

I’ve read over nearly every reverse to drive clunk thread and can’t seem to figure out my issue. First off, it’s nothing front end related as I have the front driveshaft removed and the center diff locked. I’ve removed the rear DS, cleaned the ujoints, regreased, cleaned the slip joint splines...

This. I can’t figure out what mine is. Definitely not any of the things above as I have my front DS removed and running with the center diff locked. When I’m park I can grab the rear driveshaft and rotate it back and forth a decent amount. No play at the joints either. Have disassembled the slip...

X2. Periodically, when they start getting rough, remove, clean, grease, reinstall. It would be nice if BIO had that as an option/upgrade for those pins to be stainless.

For the second fender, I decided to order these strong hand magnets. They made setting the angle for the fender frames a million times easier. Highly recommend for metal fab. Merry Christmas from me and Roux!!!

For the inner side of the fender I had though of using the wall of the cabin. But then figured that wouldn’t work very well so built an inner wall. I built the fender 1cm away from the outer edge of the main frame to leave room to attach the wall and trim around the lower edge of the cabin. The...

I then tacked the fender in place. I tried TIG welding the fender to the 2x2”, but i just don’t have the skill. I couldn’t get a steady position and kept melting too much of the skin. Plus, it would have taken a 4-6 Times as long to TIG the the whole skin vs MIG. The welds along the outer edge I...

I bought a 4x8 sheet of 16gauge steel (~$50) for making the fender skin. I used some cardboard to get the sizing right. Traced on the sheet, and then used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. A sheet metal brake would have been perfect here. I thought about building one, but I don’t have a...