Awesome. Let me know what you find in the box. I go to Clovis quite a bit. If you are able to figure it out id be glad to pay you to fix my unit. Especially if it involves soldering.
Please take pics of what you see inside. Might just be a faulty connection or something shorted out. Are you in CA by chance?
I would message the seller and ask how many miles were on the previous unit.
Did you check the hose that's on your old unit for cracks and all that?
Sadly, techs in general are taught to replace things instead of making repairs. It makes sense that the FSM would say to just replace the entire unit. There very well could be a DIY solution
Interesting. So replacing the unit is the only way to go eh? Is there a DIY solution or someone I can send the unit off to for rebuild? I'm willing to push my luck opening the system if I'm going to buy a new one anyway.
By chance, did you have the high pressure switch tested with Toyota? I'm trying to educate myself as much as possible; if the switch is the issue, why does it only happen when it's cold? And why does bleeding the system 100% remedy the problem temporarily?
Did some investigating - possibly found the culprit.
1. There is a master cylinder pressure sensor (I believe only applicable to units with ATRAC - please correct me if I'm wrong) - it is listed as a non-reusable part as indicated by the black diamond. Replace if your vehicle has it; the part...
It's all trial and error. I'm looking to sell my LC pretty soon and thinking about just replacing the entire assembly so the next owner won't have to put up with this. I have a few things left to try and then it's out with the old and in with the new.
True, I think there's air getting in...
I've had both my motor and accumulator replaced. The issue only happens when cold. I pump the brakes and after about 30 pumps the noise goes away. Also, bleeding the brakes solves the problem for a while.
When I bleed the brakes i get air out of the lines every time.