at 300k miles, with the engine out, I'd consider the following:
head gasket
head clean / inspect
valve stem seals (the likely source of your oil consumption)
new valve cover seal / spark plug tube seals
oil pump cover seal
oil cooler seals
front/rear crank/main seals
remove/reseal the timing...
$25k for those miles and that rust seems too high to me. Maybe I'm out of touch with the market or maybe there are other details about this rig that help justify the price but I wouldn't be interested in it personally based on what I see and that price.
I weight rust very heavily in the...
Lift without proper setup (caster correction, etc.), loose suspension components (bushings, etc.), loose steering components (frame crack, loose box, worn trunion bearings, loose wheel bearings, etc.) would all be no surprise on one of these unless it was well looked after. Even a stock height...
Interesting, where do you think she got the idea? I assume there's a social media influencer touting the amazing qualities of TDI converted Vanagons out there?
When I sold my last Vanagon most of the interested / possible buyers were younger women which was a change from the many I had sold in...
I didn't read the full thread so may not be adding much but I wanted to chime in since I've now got about 80k miles on my '97 FZJ and I've previously owned many VW vans from splitties to Vanagons. I Full-timed in an '83 Vanagon for a decade, have traveled in most flavors of Vanagon including...
I'll play,
'97 80 with a fairly stock and sorted setup that's on 33s with speedo correction gear and accurate speedo/odometer. Have tracked MPG for every tank over the 80k miles I've driven it.
16.2 Maximum MPG
7.1 Minimum MPG
11.7 Average MPG
I've achieved close to the Max and Min MPG...
Thanks @Hatari It's good to have that contact and $10k sounds about right based on my research. As you said though, it's expensive!
Congrats, your 80 looks amazing.
@Hatari
Share the paint shop you used and the general work done / price if you don't mind, and if you think they did a good job.
I'm just up the road and may get my 80 repainted some time but finding a good shop that actually wants to paint older cars can be a challenge.
I've seen a few flare fixes on the forum over the years and one of my favorites was from martinakl and followed this process:
epoxy chain link to the inside of the flare where the mounting tab used to be
run a zip tie around that chain link and then through the mounting hole in the metal fender...
Could be a torn intake hose, the larger one that runs from air cleaner to throttle body. If older/stiff these can break when handled to remove the TB and can then be mostly "closed" at idle but open up and let a lot of air in under loads when the engine moves and opens up the cracks in the...
Good point by Dan above, you may have mixed later/longer birfs with earlier/narrower drive flanges which can cause the stub axle to knock off the dust cap.
I'm lazy so unless the shafts are already out I'd test more before stripping it down far enough to pull the diff and I'd guess you could...
ouch!
As I understand it the front (high pinion) diff is relatively weak(er) when driving in reverse which should match how you loaded it up. I'd try to isolate the front diff with your tests to see if you can confirm that it is or isn't the clunk source and I'd be ready to pull it for...