Recent content by John Smith

The strange knob on your dash is intended to control throttle, it is not stock. Check the other side of your firewall to see if it is hooked up.

I run my Sniper pink wire off of a dedicated relay activated by the IGN circuit. Even though Holley says to avoid using the coil + terminal, because it is "noisy", it seems many Mud members put the pink wire on the coil + terminal without issue. I have my fuel cell vented to my charcoal...

AN fittings don't need anything to seal.

If this is a points distributor, have they been checked? Lots of times points issues can seem like fuel delivery issues.

I don't hear a knock, sounds like a 2F to me. Your valve chatter sounds louder than mine at idle, but that just may be the recording. Also, my crank pulley has had a wobble for years, still running well.

Your VIN number is found on the passenger side frame horn at the front of the truck. It would be highly unusual for someone to swap a 3 speed transmission into an 81 build FJ40. My guess is your truck is quite older than 81, but the VIN will tell us that. A steering damper will do nothing for...

Does this truck have drive flanges or manually locking hubs on the front axle? Have you verified both drive shafts are in phase as far as ujoints, and that the joints are not worn out? What you are describing sounds like a worn out ujoint to me.

Power steering of any kind has gotten very expensive due to the low stock of steering gear boxes available. Depending on what what style you want to install I would budget $2k as crazy as that sounds.

Frame looks good, and the body has some rust, but doesn't look too bad. What I can see of the steering looks very unique. Do you have any pictures of the steering gear box? Depending on price, I would buy this truck based on what I see in the pictures. I would also expect to probably completely...

Dieseling tells me the fuel cut solenoid has probably failed. So start your troubleshooting there to resolve your run on after key off. What is your vacuum at idle? It sounds like you have a vacuum leak.

The quickest way is to just remove the fuel supply tube and spray carb cleaner in there. When that doesn't work, watch those videos and rebuild your carb. It really is very easy after watching Pinhead's videos.

I would consider getting a DIY AC flush kit. Or have your AC guy flush the entire system before the next charge. I've used this on two R12 to R134A successful conversions...

Are you running stock length shackles? Do you currently have caster correction shims installed on the front axle? What you describe sounds like it could be a caster issue.

I somehow overlooked the fried wires earlier in your post. That alt got fried. However, I bet a old school Alternator shop could probably bring it back to life. For what they charge for those it may be worth a try.

If that alternator still has the S pin, when you head to the parts store, get a plug with the SFL wires. Connect the S wire to the output stud on the back of the alt and hook F wire to your black / yellow stripe you have verified 12V + key on. If that does not excite the alt, it is dead. My...