Recent content by Izeloz

The hood spacers from Outsane work really well for me. It looks a little funky with the back of the hood spaced up, but it makes a noticeable difference. If you're not a fan of that look, you could put some louvers on the hood (search the forum for the best place to put them).

How did you discover it was "not the right one"? It sounds like the one currently in there is working fine. Maybe I'm not getting the whole picture, but it kinda sounds like a case of, "if it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is". What issue are you having that you suspect the AFM is an issue?

I was talking about the 609 license. Sorry, it's been a while since I looked at it. When I got it, it cost like $25 and was an open book test. I just found a can of R12 on eBay, but it was $75 for a 12 ounce can. Just like everything else, I suppose prices have gone up. Looks like they have an...

Just get your EPA license for restricted refrigerants. It's cheap and easy. I bought R12 on eBay for my '91. All I had to do was provide my valid EPA license number.

I just picked one up at the local parts store. They only had a 90-amp, so I modified the alternator mounting ear so it fit right. I've already warrantied it once, but with a lifetime warranty and a nationwide chain of stores, I can replace it whenever it decides to act up. They gave me no...

I have a similar problem with my '91. I will be following to see what the resolution is. I suspect some wonkiness in my brake booster also.

I agree. Something is causing that fusible link to blow, and it's VERY unlikely to be a bad AFM or other sensor. Figure out which one it is and get ahold of the EWD for your truck. You've probably got a damaged wire or connector somewhere, and an EWD will help you narrow down the problem.

Check your intake hose VERY thoroughly for cracks. I have had this problem before. It would start and run okay, but when I put it in gear, my weak old OEM motor mounts allowed the engine to move enough to open the crack(s) in the intake tube and it would die. HTH!

I just got 5 rims from a 2010 Tacoma (gotta have the matching spare!). No spacers. Can't run center caps in front or rear (if it's a full-float axle), but I like the way they look, and the fact that you can pick them up all day long for cheap. The tires are 265/70r17. 1" body lift. Stock, saggy...

It would be worth trying to clean them well. The seatbelts tend to accumulate dirt and gunk over the years and stop working as well. I'm pretty sure there are a few threads on here detailing the R&R of the mechanism.

Are there any codes? Sometimes the check engine light won't come on with stored codes. Find the diagnostic connector under the hood on the firewall on the passenger side and use a paperclip (or something similar) and short the TE1 and E1 terminals (should be labeled). Put the key in the ignition...

I got a nice, shiny one from the parts store. As soon as I got it home, I took it apart and replaced the plunger and contacts with OEM. I went with a parts store option because of the lifetime warranty. DON'T believe them if they tell you that the remanufactured starter uses all new internals...

My factory jack has seen better days. My sliding window has had a leak before I got the vehicle, and years of neglect and leaking water means that the jack is crunchy and doesn't extend all the way. I tore it apart and intend to clean it up and repair it, but I was wondering if anyone knows of...

Sign me up also for a .dxf when/if anyone has one! Even just a rough sketch on a napkin (but with precise measurements) would be welcome.

What they said. I did a 1" body lift with a tcase extension, and I had the same problem after the body lift with it popping out. Unfortunately, I was in the middle of a trail in Moab when it happened, but the linkage is easy to adjust with basic tools, so it wasn't too big a deal.