Recent content by guzzla

I might have mentioned earlier that if the holes in the axles arent a very firm fit over the locating studs, that extra movement will just keep the problem going as it continuously side loads the studs and eventually snaps them. When I added the 10mm dowel studs I was able to drill the bigger...

Hey guys, My setup is still going strong with zero issues since. I did swap from 35s back to a 305/75r16 muddie a while ago and possibly fitted a Detroit locker in the rear (crapload better than the arb it replaced) For the record, I used the cone washers along with the SHCS.

Once I've made sure they are bedded in properly by doing them up tight and spinning a few times, I just back them off then tighten them up until there is no play then tighten it a bit more until the first pair of notches line up. Install screws and your done. 15yrs, never had an issue. Much the...

Yeah, I agree with your maths and I can't explain it as I can't remember what diff ratios and tyres I was running - maybe 4.56:1 & 35s. And funnily enough, I've seen quite a few turbo diesel dyno results with out of proportion power/torque figures too. But as you'll see further down page 3 of...

On the rear, i tighten it up until theres no play, then tighten it a bit more until the closest notch lines up. On the front, i tighten it unil theres no play then go another 1/4 turn. The outer nut is just done up sensibly firm.

Haha, thanks guys. The shroud has performed faultlessly. It sure was a mission but well worth it.

I would gladly pay $100 or even $180 for a set of OEM leads. Unfortunately, I have to pay $290 here in AUS. But after a horrible experience trying to remove aftermarket leads that melted to the plugs, I consider it money very well spent. Never again will I fit aftermarket leads. Whatever they...

Update by request... the auto is going awesome, so bloody good to drive on and off road. Silky smooth and handles the power abuse with ease. I've been thinking of fitting paddle shift which the Compu-Shift has the provision for. I think that would be sweet!!!!

The purpose of testing without AC on is that the AC places additional load on the cooling system. I know for a fact mine stays cooler at idle with the AC off. It's a simple test to carry out and confirm if his cooling temps are resolved with the AC off.

Is all your testing done with the AC on? If not, you really need to do the same test with the AC off. It makes a noticeable difference to mine when stationary, especially when ambient is uber hot.

Woops, double post.

Yep, with the AC operating, it has a marked effect on engine temps, particularly when ambient temp is hot and and little air flow through the rad. If engine temps remain more normal with the AC off in the same circumstances, then you know it's the AC placing the additional load on the cooling...

Well clearly theres nothing wrong with the coolong system if youve done all that work. So, was it ever dyno tuned when the sc was fitted? Either way, I'd be putting it on the dyno and checking the overall tune. A bad or non existant tune can easily cause overheating issues. You will need...

The paintwork has been looking pretty sad after the last few trips so it was time to give it a bit of TLC. Started with a full underbody high pressure hose then a wash. Fired up the buffer and hit every panel with Maguires Mirror Glase medium cutting compound and watched all those bush stripes...

It does sound kind of dumb blaming the PO for not running any coolant and you've only just discovered it now. I ran only water for a long time with no adverse effect - even during a blisteringly hot Aussie Summer. Coolant doesn't stop your engine from overheating, it just delays the inevitable...