Recent content by george_tlc

If you are going to run split rims, then you should learn how to break them down and repair a puncture. Otherwise, just run regular rims unless you are just after 'the look'. I run them in oz on my patrol there and for the oz bush it is really really nice to be able to do repairs yourself -...

And for future searchers... The OP picture of wiring - do *NOT* use scotch locks for 'tapping' into wires and even more ***NOT*** for external wiring in weather/mud etc. They work until they don't and become a corrosion nightmare to the wires they cut into. And as per above, the ARB tabs are...

I generally run 10awg or 8awg. *BUT*, I have always lopped off the connector/plug on the fridge (did to Engel and also to my ARB) and put on an sb50. Nothing like overkill. The connectors can often have poor contact and high resistance (relatively) and you end up with voltage drop. The fridge...

Good choice. Get their rear panhard bracket as well if you don't already have it, given you are lifted - makes a significant difference not having the rear wag the dog. cheers, george.

Easy to make your own 'bung' to keep the crap out. Get a fitting (female coupler), get a 'plug', drill hole through end to attach stainless safety wire so you don't lose the 'bung'. Couple of o-rings to fully seal and you're good to go. Had this set up on both my US cruiser and Oz patrol for...

All comes down to maintenance that has been done. i.e. all coolant hoses, transmission hoses, brake lines, fuel lines/hoses, lubrication, etc. Brake pads etc. Belts. Basic toolbox with what you would need to replace a hose or change a spark plug or tighten up a loose bolt. If maintenance has...

Sounds good. I've run 7.50r16 and the last 15+ years 235/85r16 on my ancient patrol (in oz). I've not ever felt that wide tyres would have enhanced anything. Those skinny tyres have taken me through a LOT of WA and some of NT/SA. Lot's of desert travel. They are mounted on split rims (so tubes...

^ you don't understand, it's a french made shock with oleo :) cheers, george.

4" lift, do you have a DC shaft at the front end? And yes, pull the shafts and check uni's by hand. Also check slip joints. And as was asked, have you pumped grease into them - and if so, did the sound change in any way. Leave the front shaft off and go for a drive and report if sound changes...

^ you are not 'losing' 1V every 12 hours. LiFePO4 batteries (well, most batteries) will 'float' at a 100% charged voltage that is NOT the same as what the charger is 'topping' up to. e.g. your alternator will charge your starting battery up to 14.4V (give or take), but the battery will be 100%...

Replace all the hoses you can - if one split/died, many of the others must be of similar vintage... Get better hose clamps too or some self tensioning ones. cheers, george.

^ Well, if it's that horrendous when coming to a stop at a couple of mph, just get a volunteer (or have one drive) and you can just fast walk along with the 80 as it stops and identify the area making the noise. At least narrow it down to a side/end and you can better identify the type of noise...

It would be from the rear, but verify that the BIG panhard bolt that holds the panhard to the DV bracket is not nicking/rubbing/hitting the DS coil when it cycles up/down. The clearance is tight with the Dob dual rate coils - tight to the point of touching. Either some thick washers on the head...

So, lots of changes. WHEN did the 'noise' actually start in this adventure down the rabbit hole? :) cheers, george.

So, you bought shocks for 6" lift? And you are trying to use them with J springs that 'may' give you 4". You should purchase shocks that provide the up/down travel you need for the springs you are running. This gives a balanced articulation range. Then set bump stops to limit bottoming out...