Question - I have frame-mounted WKOR sliders. I don't necessarily want to yank them off if I don't have to to get to the pinch welds to lift the body up when I put in my lift pucks. Once the body is unbolted on one side, are there any spots anyone has found on the unibody (that aren't the...
I do not carry or keep chemicals in my truck. I do not tow a boat, so there is never salt water. This is basically daily driving, and why you should NOT buy one of these, besides the crappy latches. Bolts corroding like this in a year and a half is NOT acceptable.
Changing miles on a 2000 100 is simple. Remove the instrument cluster, swap in one with lower miles from a wreck, drive down the road. The miles are ONLY kept in the odometer, there is nothing to 'roll back'.
Porting does not do much on 2UZs. Cams do, but you need to blow a lot of boost in to get there. You are going to spend 10k-15k+ to get that power with a shop doing the work when all is said and done. For that money, just sell the 100 and buy a 200 if you want a Land Cruiser with more power.
There is a tab for one end of the bracket, and the other end bolts to the frame. Actually, bolt goes though frame into nut tack-welded to top of frame, mentioned in my post.. If the tab is not rusted out and you can use it, yes, bolt the new bracket on.
Since it's almost guaranteed you will snap the bolt holding the frame-mounted bracket on, what I suggest is to get a new bracket from Toyota, go ahead and let the bolt snap when you wrench on it. You might get lucky (you won't!).
The nut on the top of the frame for that bolt is tack-welded on...
Pre-facelift 100s only keep the odo miles in the cluster, nowhere else. Swap in a low-mileage cluster from a wreck, then scam away. Way too easy, unfortunately. Don't know about later 100s, only experience is early ones.
On mine, the bolts have all corroded and look like crap, for no reason I can tell. The latches have gotten loose. It rattles. Given the choice, I would not buy it again, there are better made options out there.