Recent content by fabmec

Mine were all the same blue silicone round buttons. I replaced 9 on the the board. Mine does not have climate control. Have you got a pic of the switches you talking about .

If your having trouble with little buttons on the circuit board they can be desoldered and replaced with a tactile switch part # FSM4JRT. They are available online for only a few cents each. If you can't do the pcb desoldering and soldering thing pay someone to do it as it is a permanent fix.

Bugger. The block could be fixed as long as the crank & cam tunnels were straight. Just have to strip engine deck the block recut counterbores & reset piston heights

You just need a different end on the puller

Managed to find that book so below are some examples from an independent lab where an analysis was done on various cylinders and cylinder components. (Note: The color has been removed from these photographs for better contrast in the illustrations) The above illustration shows the underside or...

Yes .04mm = 1.6 thou = outside spec = bad

Yes thats what I would do 1&3 and check the counterbore there may be contact marks where it is seated. The mark should be even all the way round . I've got some pictures in a book somewhere I'll see if i can dig out tonight. Then check the counterbore depth and the sleeve flange to see how far...

Recheck without your press tool in place. Also place straight edge across tops and see if you have similar readings. You may have localised issues with deck flatness ie been really hot in past or issues with foreign matter or wear of couterbore lip on 1 & 3

This is one variation of counterbore cutter for in frame repairs. Correct size shims must be available before doing this type of activity. http://klineind.com/documents/KL50000-200.pdf

Have a look at this pdf > http://www.dieselclass.com/Engine Files/Diesel Engine Cylinder Blocks 02-02.pdf. It gives you some good background on some of the questions you have asked recently and will help you figure out if the counterbore is useable or not.

If the protrusion is true & correct, and the head is tight, they cannot move. They will move if the engine is turned with the head off, if they are loose in the block.

Found out the hard way as well a few decades ago.

The numbers agree with the book, but you should only have .001" (.0254 mm) variation between adjacent cylinders. The main purpose of cylinder liner or sleeve protrusion is to give you the proper amount of “crush” on your cylinder head gasket. This ensures that once torqued, your cylinder head...

No. Make sure that the rebate in the block is accurate and consistant around the entire circumference, and the face of the deck is true. One of those might be 1/2 a thou lower.

Tacho signal is only required for anti stall compressor cut-out (not needed on a diesel or efi petrol with idle speed control) & on some versions over approx. 3500 rpm to disengage for more power. My 90 fj80 (was 3f carby manual) amplifier has a 077151-1911 board which is different to yours as...