The sockets for the switches into the panel. I printed mine based off the dimensions from the factory panel but they don't sit as snug and I noticed on the Blue Dog it looks like there's a slight taper to the sockets
Did you taper the holes for the switches? I've done a couple iterations now trying to get the fitment right for the panel left of the steering wheel and it would seem the sockets need to tapered slightly to get snug fitment.
Not a EE either (ME with some exposure to that EE sorcery) but the jumper between the breakers looks wrong to me. If your compressor breaker fails closed, you're going to cook both wires. Also, the rings on the jumper look close to the mounting screw which will short, so might want to insulate...
Junkyard. You can pull the axle from a newer 4R/460/FJ. Even if it doesn't have the diff you can eat the core charge from ECGS cheaper than it would be to buy a full assembly. Then just swap in the axles from your existing 8.
A lot of people will say it's a waste to lock the factory 8" rear because of the weaker ring gear. If you have the disposable funds you might be better served changing out to a newer 8.2 axle and then ordering a locked 3rd from ECGS. This was what I did.
Yeah I feel like the headlights suck on mine still too. Fogs were the best addition I've made. You're probably gonna get some wicked glare from the hood with them facing forward. Definitely curious though.
You're gonna need to cover the sides of the LPs if you're gonna run them as ditch lights. Is there a reason you're trying to fit them in that lighting zone?
Spent the long weekend in Moab. Ran Poison Spider, Gemini Bridges to Metal Masher, and went out to one of the Canyon overlooks. No Top of the World this trip as it and Flat Iron Mesa were snowed out for us.