e9999's latest activity

OK so I disconnected the flex fuel return line in the rear DS side of the bay. Yes, it is very easy and fast to do, if you're wondering. (Could not do it at the FPR, though.) I guess that is the answer to my original question then. And saw...

^ not too likely, I think, it ran fine for several minutes, that seems longer than what I'd expect on just the fuel in the lines. I will first check to see if there is gas coming to the fuel rail before adding more. Easy, and I don't want to...

^ good to know, thanks! Although I suppose one could argue it may depend on how it's stuck, but that is the devil's advocate talking, I guess.

No Schraeder valve anywhere in that fuel system, I assume? I just hope I didn't cook the fuel pump by running it with so little fuel in the tank....

^^^ Yes, I still need to verify that there is fuel getting to the injectors. To be done soon. ^^ Yes, I can test the EGR but I'd rather not do that now unless I know that it's a potential culprit. Last time I checked it, it worked fine IIRC...

I suspect that I may have some issues with my EGR given an OBD code I saw before. Is it possible that it might prevent the engine from starting at all (cranking but not firing) as I'm experiencing now? Perhaps by being stuck in the wrong...

yes, good point, that is sort of how I emptied the tank in the first place. I used a separate power source then IIRC, which was a pain so I wanted to avoid that to start with, but you are right, in this case it would only take a few seconds to...

ah, good point about cooling the pump, I do remember it being a bit higher up than the sock. Although you would think they designed it to work with low tank contents, so it may be primarily cooled internally. I did not want to add more fuel...

Had the 80 in storage for some time. I had emptied the tank with the fuel pump so there was very little gas left in the tank. I just drained the old gas that was left (less than a quart, turns out) through the drain plug and rinsed the tank...

It's not so much that the PWM controllers are not worth having in the absolute, it's that the MPPT ones are just much better (more power, more versatile, etc). But the latter are also more expensive so it's a judgement call, of course...

well, that looks like they have the absorption ("booster") voltage set to 14.4V, that is fine for lead acid. And the float to 13.7V, also fine. And it looks like it can be changed, good.

^ what do you mean the float was set to 14.4V? That is not a float voltage for lead acid, float should be around 13.5V. 14.4V is absorption voltage. But what are you measuring there? Is that the voltage straight off the controller without a...

I have used a slow geared down (like 50 rpms) motor and attach the can to the shaft with a clamp. Just let it rotate for a while. I wonder if one could use a DA sander strapped upside down without paper, and just have the can touch /rest on...

AFAIU (did some experiments but not 100% sure I recall this correctly): a PWM controller switch will at first be on full time when the battery has low voltage, say 12V, for max averaged current. Picture that as the controller being a solid wire...

if a lead acid battery especially, you may want to make sure that your controller can go into actual float mode. Remember that PWM controllers are basically just on/off switches and do not have a full DC to DC converter like the MPPT ones.

yes, the second one is probably going to last longer in that it has exterior wiring between the 2 sides, so, easy to fix if the cables were to break (also much less likely than with interior ones). And also probably physically stronger...

quick impression is that the above is inexpensive and inexpensive stuff is probably what you will get. There is not much info there, though. Given that it's 150W nominal, it would probably be big enough for a fridge even if not particularly...

can you raise the front wheels off the ground by power-lowering the forks all the way down on those things, or do they go down just by gravity?

Yes, a generator is easier (at first) if you don't mind the noise, the fuel, and the size/weight, and already have one. But it's actually pretty simple to set up a solar system if you have a basic understanding of DC wiring and are willing to...

you are right, I looked up the local news and it was in El Granado which is like 30 miles inland. But no matter, the Spring should be much cooler.

^ 0.4A average looks low to me. A typical camping fridge uses about 50W to run and is on maybe 1/3 or 50% of the time. Depends on conditions but roughly speaking. So around 20 - 25W average. That makes it look like a 25W panel should do the...

Huelva was just 46C / 115F ! Yikes! A tad on the hot side...

It would be better to have more information to make sense of all this. That graph above in post 19 could simply show the controller going from float to absorption to float on the battery side, depending on settings. Nothing wrong with that. The...

^ Spresso, that is true, and I was concerned about that at first, but in practice I found that it is not an issue, even with only one panel, because all nominal "12V" panels I know of will easily get to about 20V under open circuit -even with...

If you mean that you set a regular multimeter on current mode and touch the test leads to the still-connected ends of either the panel or the battery cable at the junction block, and then read the current value like that, well, that's a new one...