Recent content by Dougal

I'm suspicous about a turbo that was too small killing your 6.5. Because those things commit suicide often regardless of the turbo. I have run many experiments myself with turbo sizing and purposefully fitted a turbo that caused drive pressure to be 4x boost. 60psi drive pressure for 15psi...

I'm trying to help here but you're making it impossible. There is a lot more to turbo sizing than you've got a grip on. I've calculated out turbo sizes for that size engine using compressor and turbine flows. It's an excellent match. The other Engineers who sized those turbos on BMW and...

Take a GPS and get elevation numbers.

Look up the engine size for a 100hp tractor and the problems will be obvious. Holsets are built for higher boost. You don't need that.

Does anyone know the slope accurately? You can calculate power from slope, speed and vehicle weight.

IMO the only way to safely turbo an old IDI engine is to run low boost and no extra fuel. You will gain cleaner burn, a few percent efficiency/economy gain and cooler running engine. Any increase in fuel will increase engine loads and shorten engine life. Engines of this age tend to already...

A bigger turbine means less boost, hotter EGT, more smoke and worse response. That TD04 was used on 100kW diesels and you'll be nowhere near that. On a diesel boost is cooling. The CT20 turbine is an old design that is really inefficient and would be an exhaust brake if it was smaller. The...

I don't think you'll find a genuine unit. I would buy from a reputable seller and you'll get a quality balanced unit. Kinugawa, mambatek etc. I think it's a unique flange. Part number I have is 49177-06430 There will be other similar size turbos with different flanges. But that's it's own...

CT20 is old, inefficient and hard to get parts for. Get a MHI TD04-4 which was used on 2.5 litre Mitsubishi and BMW diesels. Safe boost is single digits (i.e 9psi). Tune it so it doesn't smoke and you'll be fine.

You'll have to check different markets. Here in NZ we have DPF but not ad-blue. I presume Australia is the same. It will be difficult to find a market that doesn't have DPF these days. Maybe Africa.

Advance angle is the change in timing. It's absolute timing you want to compare. Isuzu engines are spill timed. That's where you rotate the crank until the injection pump starts to deliver fuel. 4BD1 (direct injection no turbo) is 10 deg BTDC 4BD1T (direct injection turbo) is 13-14 deg 4BD2T...

Also. Direct injection engines run a whole lot more timing advance than indirect injection engines do.

Back then Toyota stretched the FTE intervals out to an enormous 7,500km. Because the FTE ran a whole lot cleaner than the earlier engines. Less soot in the oil. Note the progression in oil standards. CF oil on that chart is C for "compression ignition" (diesel) and F was the grade. Now...

Bigger turbo and injectors will only help when you've got a bigger injection pump. Stock doesn't have much head-room: OM617 Performance Review - https://www.4btswaps.com/threads/om617-performance-review.74457/

Interesting, thanks. How is your Hilux for fuel economy? Do you have ad-blue? Here we have only the 2.8 1GD without ad-blue. Fuel consumption isn't great.