Recent content by donco

Quick fix with a cheapie Amazon $20 generic coil pack. The code followed from cyl 5 to cyl 1 when swapped. Not enough miles on it yet to know how long the new coil will last. I have a couple genuine made in Japan Denso's on order to keep on hand for the next one(s) failure. I must remember...

Ditto, no hole required. 7/8" (22mm) ratcheting box end wrench, large pipe wrench on the upper shock tube. Might dent or ding the old shock but you're getting rid of it anyway. Rubber grip work glove is sufficient to install the new ones with the ratchet wrench.

I installed a Pyroil freeze plug heater many years ago. I see there is one listed on ebay, "Engine Block Heater Five Star Manufacturing 11414". Napa appears to sell the same one, "KAT 11414". I only used it a few times in North Dakota but seemed to work fine: Block heater install Edit...

Here's my genuine Toyota waterpump purchased from the dealer. 140k miles since the previous timing belt job. It had been leaking for who knows how long but not enough to drip on the ground.

About 2/3 of the plastic fasteners pulled out of the cheap factory fiberboard panel. New OE panels are expensive, $900+ for p/n 64780-60190-b0. Aftermarket storage panels run $375 or more. I decided just to repair mine with fiberglass patches and a Dremmel tool. I peeled back the carpet and...

Just let the air out of the tires ;)

My 2000 did that a few times about 10 years ago, usually after sitting out in the rain. Similar symptoms as yours. Never found a definitive cause but I suspect it was water running down to the backside of kickpanel fuse box that trips a relay, either from a compromised windshield seal or...

No problems with the fronts. I used a 7/8" ratcheting box end wrench on the rears with a pipe wrench on the upper shock tube.

I believe the color of the interior of my 2000 lc100 is "light oak". Your website lists "tan". What color should I order for front seat bottoms?

That just happened to me Sunday. Drove fine all morning, parked it. Came out later in the day and "dead". Turned out the battery clamp on the positive post was loose. Tightened it up and all is good, battery is fine.

If you polish the t-stat housing groove with a little 400 grit, it is sized perfectly for a Buna-N o-ring, 2-034. You could also use a Viton o-ring, same size. It stays put in the groove with a light smear of silicone grease. 10 months and 7k miles later, still no leaks.

The last time I drained it, I had a hard time removing the drain plug since I over-tightened it the time before. The drain plug is pretty soft and stretches if not careful. In addition to the crush washer above, the part number for the drain plug is 90341-10011. New OEM drain plug and crush...

I purchased our 2000 with 31k miles. It now has 247k miles. I have been doing periodic 4 qt +/- drain and fills with Amsoil ATF and it still drives and shifts flawlessly, even with occasional heavy towing. I have had previous Ford and BMW transmissions with high mileage fail when changing all...

Day 2: primer and guide coat Day 3: blocked and seal coat (reflection of clouds). I kinda like the matte finish, think I'll keep it that way for awhile until the weather cools off enough to shoot the final color coat.

There are several ways you could approach this. First, get some cutting compound and see if you can buff out the center region where the clear has already come off and see if the paint comes back to the original color. If so, you can proceed with removing what's left of the old clearcoat...