Recent content by CruiserDM

Looking to buy a set of used bolt on rock sliders for my 1998 LX470. Preferably for a non-AHC vehicle and I'll cut out what's in the way. Willing to travel a couple hours to NC, Georgia, VA, etc. if need be depending on where you're located.

Unfortunately no typos. I’m going to try that then a leak down test hopefully this coming weekend. The truck is currently way up on jack stands as I’m in the middle of an axle job. Once that’s finished up I’ll determine if I’m looking at a 3FE repair or an LS swap lol

I've currently got a "reman" box in my 80 from rockauto, it's a BBB Industries box: More Information for BBB INDUSTRIES 5110111 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7044484&cc=0&pt=7416&jsn=1209 Interestingly enough, the "TOYODA" emblem on the side of it seems to have been ground down...

Compression test results: #1 176psi #2 150psi #3 140psi #4 150psi #5 35psi #6 36psi Cylinder 5 still seems to be running though, noticeable change when spark plug wire is pulled while the engine is running. 6 seems to be completely dead.

Will definitely tap that one with the multimeter tomorrow too. Just had them all sent out to be cleaned while the intake was off and spray tests looked good on all of them. Hoping for bad harness or connector. Thank you for the info

Well, sorry for wasting your time on all this. Turns out cylinder six just isn’t firing. Pulled the plug cable and nothing changed as far as how it runs. Made sure the plug and wire are working and they’re good. Going to compression test tomorrow, then probably drive into oncoming. Strangely...

I've replaced the Coolant temp sensor with this in the past few months: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013FZYRA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cold Start Injector Switch also replaced. I'll try and listen for the clicks. I've watched a video on taking apart the ISC to...

Idle speed seems to be around 750-850 once warmed up. Maybe the O2 sensor not working is the culprit? The transmission does downshift and I've got about a millimeter between the red bobber piece and the black boot on the kickdown cable. I definitely feel like it's in the correct gear for...

Set my timing to the 7 degrees BTDC, 12 BTDC with the diag port jumper removed. There is definitely a bit more power now, I can accelerate while climbing the big hill outside my neighborhood, but just barely. It still is barely creeping past 30mph until the road flattens out. When I go full...

Well my timing window plug is missing, but I did find the window itself. Got the flywheel marked through the inspection plate last night with a paint pen, then marked the crank pulley after pulling TDC then the 7 BTDC mark into the window. Pulled out the timing light, got TE1 and E1 jumped etc...

Just received back from muffler shop, new exhaust + muffler past the new downpipes I just put on so my neighbors can stand for me to own the thing again. Video of it idling in current condition before I mess with anything for records sake.

I'll definitely paint those dots, if I were to try and line it up in just the small window - is there a line at the window that I'm trying to line the 7 degree dot up with? or do I just want it to be in the center of the window? If I'm using this timing light...

Right, I’m looking at 7 degrees BTCD with TE1 and E1 jumped, and 12 without? I’ve never done timing before but have a light coming. Looks like there’s just a line that will line up with one of the two dots (7 or 12 degrees) on the flywheel in the inspection window when the light is flashing if...

Thanks for this, I’ll check timing and report back

I haven’t checked the fuel pressure, but will definitely do so. The fuel VSV is removed with vacuum hoses ran between the two ports. I saved the VSV though and can try to put it back in. One thing I noticed when I was checking check engine light codes was that with te1 and e1 jumped the truck...