Finally fixed a nagging stall issue! The sniper has worked great except for a frustrating stall at idle that occurs when the engine is warming up. It's most likely when coasting to a stop with the engine partially warmed up. I know others have experienced this too.
My fix was to reduce how...
Inner boot slides right on. Super easy. I used gear oil for lube as whatever you put on there would just get washed away by gear oil anyway as the shift mechanism is exposed to the oil from the gearbox.
What’s amazing is that it didn’t stall with a carb which doesn’t have the advantage of an idle valve. No reason that a carb can keep it running and a sniper can’t. Good overview above. Open loop is a good idea. I do think this is caused by it making a correction in the wrong direction. Seems to...
Mine is before 160. Does it through warmup and will even do it at temp if it just got there. If I let the car sit a little then it’s all good. I have headers and my theory is that the cold intake manifold (no exhaust heat like the oe manifold) is creating the issue for me.
Do you guys have the...
Got the new shifter seat / bushing and it totally fixed it. The old seat was falling to pieces. A few notes for others who need to do this:
- The part number for the shifter seat is 33505-60011 and the part number for the dust boot is 33555-55011. Both are available from Toyota.
- I think you...
Good call! When I pull up it mostly goes away. Bought a new cup/bushing from Toyota (part # 33505-60011) and will install next weekend. I’ll report back and post a few pics here.
My 60 has 300k miles on the 4 speed. Needs a little double clutching to get into 3rd smoothly but otherwise has been great, but a new issue came up recently.
In neutral when moving the shifter from left to right it gets stuck and does not want to come back to the left / 1-2 side. A little tap...
Thanks for the tips. I do see a 1V drop from the alternator to the battery, so I think I'll focus there. I doubt that will get rid of the other voltage drops, but that's not really harming anything. The ECU is still over 12V and it's happy. The headlights are relayed, and I'm guessing there...
My dash voltage gauge and Sniper ECU both read low voltages, especially when the lights are on / there's more current draw. I threw parts at it because that works sometimes...not this time. Fresh alternator rebuild and new fusible link and no change. That work needed to happen anyway. The...
I ended up getting it rebuilt at D and D Auto Electric in Denver. Great old school alternator shop (not many of these left) and the guy really knows his stuff. Knew what car the alternator came from within 10 seconds. Rebuild took a few days. Working great!