Recent content by bozochu

Honestly use a bigger hammer. Something smooth faced around 36-40oz...should knock it loose and allow you to finish the job. Hit that unpainted flat part. You need the metal to metal “shock” to get that taper joint to give..

What size hammer you “shocking” the ball joint with?

Does anyone have a close up photo of the arb steps without it connected to arb front bumper on a 16+? Just to confirm, they are bolted into the body of the vehicle instead of the frame?

That screen is awesome. The rest...not so much.

Ok. Let me know if you need a factory 17 case. My fob guts are currently in a AJT Tacoma case.

What about for the 16-17 squat buttons? Those are the same for new Tacoma’s too.

One of the latest TFL video features a g wagon, JL rubicon and 4R trd pro. They said they brought the top of the line most capable vehicle from each manufacturer...just watch it for entertainment value.

2019...newest

The key fob for the 17 is works for tacoma’s too. The 18’s key fob looks much nicer the previous generation. If I had a 18 key fob I would not be in a hurry to switch.

I have an early 17 and it’s the recessed Allen. I guess 17 is the transition year.

I believe 17 was the last year with the flush Allen screws. The 18 on went to hex bolts.

Is the slider utilizing factory holes or did you drill additional holes?

I was just guessing. I am sure benc will be able to answer the specifics. Maybe the top part is two piece like a shell and the bottoms part is one piece? I dig it...it almost look like factory steps but with slider function.

Perhaps it’s a aluminum hybrid style? Top section aluminum and the bottom contact area steel?

RW for the win in 17”. For 18” I believe volk TE37 is the lightest...but it’s $$$$ and you need hub centric rings.