Recent content by Boogie

I honestly would wet sand it with 1500 grit and buff the vehicle with compound. This may be more effective than trying to remove it with a material that may hurt the original paint. Wet sanding would probably work fantastic. Just remember, once you have wet sanded all teh areas, yoiu need to use...

What this guy suggested is the direction you need to go. The reason for this is because Chip guard painted over will only cause white spots when the rocks hit the outer layer of paint. If you notice on alot of vehicles, when their chip guard has alot of chips in it from rocks, the under lying...

He did not specify which model!

I would powder coat them for you, but my oven is down for the count right now. There is a shop heading West on 29 out of seward Junction in Liberty Hill on teh right hand side. I forgot the name of the shop...but I know it's in Liberty Hill! Wish I could remember the name...sorry.

I know, I know...impossible you say...but maybe...just maybe someone will have one. FJ80 3rd. Looking for one...please PM me if you have one. Thanks

I have 3 sets of 1985 Mini Birf's inner and outer. No clicking..if these are the ones you are looking for! 1 Passenger inner and outer 2 Drivers inner and outer or vise versa...made me think twice!!!!

I'm afraid that they may be gone tomorrow night. If the guy flakes I will get a shipping quote to that Zip for you. Thanks for the bump!!!!

Correct! As long as the bonding agent is mixed properly! 50/50 or 60/40...whatever the case may be. But most bonding agents come with a tube that automatically mixes the material together. Just remember to clamp the panel down and ensure you are using the agent within the proper room temperature.

The clear coat does not need to be sanded unless there is excessive orange peel or lots of trash in the paint after being sprayed. Example: let's say there is a piece of dust or bug that got into the panel when spraying the clear. Take some 1500 grit sand paper and "Wet Sand" the area. Do not...

Just make sure that when you repaired the fiberglass area that there were no cracks in the fiberglass. If there were and you just put bondo overtop it will eventually crack thru the paint later. The proper procedure for repairing cracks in fiberglass is to "V" the crack completely and at least...

I'm saying with cheap labor your better off prepping all teh panels and doing all teh body work yourself if your capable of doing so. This will save you from the paint flying off! Also, once it's sprayed, if you have some knowledge of color sanding & buffing, do it yourself and don't let them...

If you like you paint coming off at 55 miles an hour...get a MAACO paint job. Then again, if it is for a beater...then I would suggest Maaco. It'a ll about the prep work before the paint is laid down!

Enamel: after 40 years on a GMC truck, it buffs out like it it brand new minus the chips and deep scratches. Just imagine a John Deer Tractor. Fades but will always come back to life.

Best thing to do at this point is sand it down again with 600 grit and dig out those spots and sand those spots down again and re-prime. Then go over the entire area with a "tac rag" and spray again. That could have been caused by water, oil or any other type of fluid that does not coinside with...

five hundred for the tires alone or six hundred for the tires and wheels!