Recent content by Bisho

I'll disagree, a little, with an "it depends." I've rebooted inner boots at least three times. If a boot cracks and starts throwing grease, that in no way is an indicator there is something wrong with the rest of the axle. The inner shaft (part going into the diff) just doesn't wear out. You...

The whirring you initially heard was probably the brake booster. Totally normal.

https://autoparts.toyotaofdecatur.com/products/product/shaft-assy-fr-drive-4343060040 It’s called a front driveshaft assembly, which is probably what throws you off. The price is further discounted as you go through the checkout process. This shows for a 2000, but they are all the same.

You’ll be completely underwhelmed at the OEM foam gasket, and more so when it starts leaking again in a few years. A couple years ago I used a piece of rubber window screen spline. It worked great.

Just to fulfill your prophesy, I have 80k miles on my 555s on my 100, and going strong. Did you look to see if you can just buy new boots? You actually can for the OEM uppers and lowers, at about $10 each. I rebooted my LX, as the boots cracked but the joints were still solid at 230k. I...

It does take a little finagling to solve the puzzle, but it’s doable.

Highly recommend replacing the hubs at the same time, and make sure you get new C clips. Most likely size D or E with new axles, in my experience.

I just checked the old interweb and new OEM axles can be had for $320 each. Several places are running Labor Day free shipping sales as well. I just checked Serra Toyota and they are $320 shipped.

I’ve done it several times popping tie rod end and upper ball joint.

Download the manual. You can jump the maintenance port in the engine bay to see what the issue is, or get an OBD reader to get the codes. Over time I’ve had to have both front seatbelts rebuilt to clear the light.

I couldn’t find before pictures, but this is what it looks like when put together.

Are you saying you need to order a new spindle? If you gouged the spindle, use a file or sand paper to knock down the high points. Then just put the bearing in. I’m sure you’ll be fine. Post a picture if you can.

I used Mobil 1. I couldn’t get a Toyota bearing for four days, and really needed to wrap it up on the weekend. I use the fish scale to get 12-15 lb of breakaway, and don’t pay attention to the torque.

Drive slower.

You can also select C rated ATs, if you aren’t going to be hitting it to hard. That will cut down on the weight considerably.