Recent content by Berkut10r

@NeedaLX, what Kabanchik said is pure gold. I never got this kind of advice from LC/LX guys who I got advice from. They all said -"Easy peasy ownership." "Zero to no upkeep. Regular maintenance and hit the trails!". Also, can you expect 14MPGs out of a 100 series? With skimpy, zero rolling...

I don't have stock enclosures to reference the wiring situation, this is my final hump and I can push out rear enclosures (loaded or empty). I have a platoon of CDT demo woofers that can be had for next to nothing, while supplies last. I will provide all the wiring, resistors for those are...

@coinball, any chance you can tell what normally goes on here? OEM tweeter wiring gets spliced into woofer wiring?

No, there is not need for that. I am in polishing phase, making numerous of tweaks daily. My printer hates me.

Hey. Not brave, a caveman who is too stupid to quit is more like it. That silver thing is just a sheet of raw fiberglass, the adapter is extended almost to the door cavity, so the woofer will vent into it. The whole thing is sealed with 4 layers of various sound deadening material. Here is what...

I did not forget about you., R&D is underway. Also, there is zero information about whether those specific units are happy in enclosures or infinite baffle. If Qts values are high for those speakers, they will quit sounding decent. For the sake of the conversation, lets say they are infinite...

This week has been eventful. Few more days and project "8 inches up Bertha's rear" will be finally finished. I had a vision of an adapter to "rise out of a door card" and sit somewhat flush with that door. I cut the least amount of the door card as I possibly could, thin layer of bondo ...

For those that are wanting to run 8s, offsetting the woofer by about 7mm will prevent any chance of it hitting the door card. I read in other threads about people ruining their woofers when it came to running 8s, this is one of the ways to combat that issue. I still do not believe in a need to...

Sorry for the late response. What speakers are you running so I can gauge the depth I have to work with.

Are you looking to replace the enclosure in the process or just want the rear sealed? If you want just the rear sealed, I can design you a butt for it and all you have to do is epoxy it at the seams. If you want a whole new enclosure, I am working on that but things like the transmission losing...

I was under there the moment it started happening. I had my wife shift it up and down and I did not notice anything out of whack at all.

I would rather treat my pee pee as a musket and pack it full of glass shards than to do this process again. I have cargo area to redo (removing worthless Siless) and update wiring, this "refresh" started three lifetimes ago. OEM foam sheath was crumbling and it does not come off peacefully...

I just drove it for an extended period of time, no other issues of any kind. Shifts buttery smooth as it did prior to this foolery. Aside from dash saying D but the shifter is in Reverse, all is peaches.

PC w/CF has a spectacular finish, just dont try the "fuzzy skin" feature with it.

Lovely! ASA and Polycarbonate is what you want if parts are exposed to elements. PC will outlast the vehicle.