Recent content by Bandit_guy

They warm up the air in you manifold, just some more glow plugs. I'm not a 2H engine guy so I don't know if they are used in the whole cycle, or just during after glow, (I would assume the whole time). It's because the manifold is so big that cold air would hinder the job of the plugs in the...

Yes you can make it yourself with steel plate, or large wire. It's high current so you need a something that will be able to handle it. When you take it apart you will see it's nothing too special.

Only 5 pictures in one post. Here is what it looks like underneath

I have had some radiator issues last few years. The original Radiator was rotten through and couldn't find a shop that would re-core it in my neck of the woods. I purchased an aluminum one on e-bay and it lasted about 2 years and failed at the top seams. I learned the hard way (or probably not)...

Ah, that's unfortunate but it seems like you have lot's of spares. If they don't work out I installed this a few months ago and it's been working out good needed some fitting, replace the pulley that came with it for a smaller V-belt one and swap some wires in the plugs but over all not much...

Here is the tank I put in. I still have to paint and mod some amour for it for wheeling but for driving around it's fine. I have a hand vacuum pump for bleeding brakes/Clutches ect, (nothing fancy, bought it at Princess auto) but connected to the hose right off the altenator vacuum pump It's...

The tank is just a tank, nothing else but the fitting holes for the switch hose, connections and a drain hole. I replaced it with a small cylindrical tank and it works real nice. One small hole in the hose or steel lines and you will lose vacuum fast. To check if you have a vacuum issues on your...

Yup if they are 24 volt. They did have some 12 volt models. You can also swap the connector. It takes a little messing around but you just have to press the tab on the brass conector and you can pull the connector from the plastic plug. You need a pick or small common screw driver and the pop...

You need a reservoir to hold vacuum, the pump is insufficient to keep up. It does sound odd to say but you need a tank to store emptyness. The toyota reservoirs are often rotten out, you can replace it with 1 gallon air tank with fittings to install the pressure switches, or leave them out...

There's two ways you can check them. Option A "the safe method": 1) Checking the voltage regualtor: Have a power source of that you can control the voltage, like three 9v batteries soldered in series to up to make 27 volts with a potentiometer wired in to change the volatage above and below...

If it's not a perfect fit it will still work just fine, have a look for AC delco E772a or equivalent from another manufacturer. Rockauto or Ebay.

You need an 8mm and a 10 mm to take the cover off an the brush holder just pops out. The brushes are 28mm X 8mm X 5mm and need a copper wire tale. You just de solder the old ones out and resolder the new ones in. The ones in the picture measured at 19mm which is probably why I was have trouble...

The alternator will always have a succion pump on the back it's how your break booster get's it's succion. It's not real diffcult to remove but I just leave it on when removing the alternator. The oil lines don't have much in them so they don't make a mess when you take them off. Your voltage...

If I were a betting man, which I am not, I would put money on the charging issue. It's easy to check, disconnect the sediment sensor wire, make sure it's not grounded and if the light stays on with the engine running your alternator is not charging, or charging enough. It's a simpler fix than...

Ground where you want to the chassis is what I would use. The step down is just another item that's hooked up. It's like a radio or light. It maks it easier to wire things up if you use the chassis for ground.