Recent content by aztoyman

Glad you found it. Thanks for updating the thread.

This bed was pretty beat to start with and the main reason I didn't mind hacking it up for mock-up. I've definitely considered taking what's left of the bottom out.

:hmm: I may end up swapping my better bed on and moving some things around back there. Thank you for taking time for this.

@ntsqd, :hmm: So....have the upper horizontal tube come straight back and through the cab. Where I have a joint. And.........have another joint down at the base plate with a straight piece of tube between the two joints? Here's a photo edit attempt on my phone to illustrate. I understand the...

Have fun, be safe and go FAST!! Nobody's gonna pull you over!

@ntsqd, Here's what I have to work with. It's become more of a REACTIVE build than a planned one. 🙄 It looks like I'd be cutting more out of the bed to get the back stay tubes to the frame. And I don't think the angle would get through my window. Plus I need to weld in at least one diagonal...

@ntsqd Sorry, Here's a quote from NASA-Rally Sport cage specs "The backstays must be attached near the roofline and near the top outer bends of the main roll bar or lateral roll bars, on both sides of the car. They must make an angle of at least 30° relative to a vertical plane, must run...

@ntsqd I'm not sure why the 30 degree minimum. It's just been consistent in all the cage design rules I've managed to find. I've read a few questions to the scrutineers/tech inspectors from guys with pickups not really wanting bars through their cab or rear windows. Asking about options like...

Being as I have the cage bolted to the cab and the cab is on body mounts, I don't know if it's ok to attach the back stays to the shock hoops. Still looking into that. Speak up if you have an opinion on that. The back stays need to come off the top of the main hoop, be straight and angle at...

Because the back stay tubes will come off the top of the main hoop, through the window here and either down to the bed floor above the bed to frame mounts. OR, if it's ok to run them to the shock towers I may do that.

I took this window apart instead. It's had attempted break ins and it's a bit rough all over. I can either put in one piece of polycarbonate in the gasket or in the frame, or two small pieces of polycarbonate, one on each end. I think the later is the better option.

Here's a pic of my GOOD back window. I'm NOT butchering this one. I have another one I can modify to run tubes through.

I think you're going to have to try what you think should work, tack it on then cycle it. Not only for tire clearance, but for your steering linkage, bump stops and drive shaft too.

The guy blasting will get further along if you make sure to knock off heavy stuff like seam sealer or undercoat.

I also agree with getting it in epoxy. But.....MAKE SURE you read the tech sheet. SOME products are sensitive to certain blasting media. I think baking soda is one of them. Also some epoxy brands requires Ospho or phosphoric acid preps to be properly neutralized prior to applying their product...