Recent content by arrivederci

Good advice to check over the terminals, etc. Like I said earlier in this thread, I too had the same issue on my 2013 LX back in 2017 and it turned out to be bad connections at the battery along with a loose battery. Over the past 2 years, I started struggling with some sort of battery drain -...

They are just terrible. You should get rid of the trash. I'd love to buy your trash bbs pro forged rims.... :rofl: Joking not joking. Been searching for 2 sets....

None of these look like an improvement over stock to me. Just sayin'

Well maybe. Yes I did buy their hardware. Not sure if anyone has used other hardware with their setup. I assume techstream is techstream - the trick should be getting your hardware recognized on a Win 11 AMD computer.

I did everything with VX Diag. They have a bunch of download links too. WIFI Version VXDiag VCX NANO for TOYOTA TIS Techstream V18.00.008 - https://www.vxdiagshop.com/wholesale/vxdiag-vcx-nano-for-toyota-wifi-version.html

I run techstream directly on a Windows 11 machine with an AMD processor. No need to run it in a VM.

Would be interested in learning more about your experience with 'erase'. I successfully paired an OEM key that I bought recently but I'm struggling with the smart key card that came with my truck but never worked. I go through the first step with a working key, then get the beep on the smart...

FWIW, I 'think' the VM/Virtualbox solution is required if you use a Mac and/or want to buy the cheap $25 ebay VCI cable. I bought the more expensive VX Diag adapter (WIFI Version VXDiag VCX NANO for TOYOTA TIS Techstream V18.00.008 -...

Timing is everything I guess. I recently found an inexpensive laptop (~$300) on a black friday amazon sale, bought VXDiag Vcx nano, etc. Install was actually easy. I started trying to follow the instructions to run a virtualbox VM with windows xp from an image but then followed the...

Congrats - looks great. I had been keeping an eye out for a set for my '13 but clearly I'm not looking often enough. I'll probably run 275/70/18 like most others. I have 2 sets of OEM 20s right now, one set with dedicated snows. I do need to be careful of too much of a lift - right now even...

Used the multimeter and yes, found ~ 300 mA when asleep. So there is a problem - now to figure out what's causing it. I went through and pulled the fuses under the hood that I couldn't test with the amp hound to see if there's a drop. Nothing. Unplugged both harnesses along the passenger...

I'll add that age can also be a factor. The rubber will dry out over time which doesn't help. Seen some garage queen cars with 30k miles or less with the same issues.

Amp hound works! Although getting to the fuses in the driver and passenger footwells is such a pain. Not sure how to test the big 30a+ sized fuses under the hood...like the ones that control AHC, etc. AM2 under the hood draws about 90 mA. ECU B1 was at 400 mA but once the truck slept it went...

Following your advice and ordering an amp hound. I read a bit more on proper testing - the volt meter and pulling fuse method might work but on modern cars can have me chasing ghosts. As you said the proper way is amp hound so I'm going to go there and either find an issue or rule out slow...

It is certainly possible. I have connected a meter up to measure amps (negative battery terminal) and one by one pulled fuses in the engine compartment...didn't really find anything with a large current draw. I can't remember what the total draw was with all fuses but I think it did seem high...