Recent content by AlpineAccess

Have you pulled the belt and spun the pulleys? That would be the best place to start to eliminate the idlers and tensioner. A mechanics stethoscope while the engine is running (watch out for the fan) will help diagnose whines that require accessories to be driven by the belt (examples...

I tried swapping this to identify a door lock issue I had; which turned out to be a wire harness issue and nothing to do with the receiver. This tested perfectly once I fixed the wire harness (as did my old one). $40 shipping included (I will ship UPS ground and send you shipping...

I just posted a set of Dobinsons in the classifieds that would be perfect for your setup. I am currently "unladen" in the rear and they were still smooth; just too much lift vs how low I wanted to keep the front. I think they are well priced and are virtually new. I replaced them with a set...

They are these ones from ExitOffroad: https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-c59-167-rear-coil-spring-options-for-toyota-land-cruiser/?srsltid=AfmBOorzfAslMO-g_E6xsQ2HW8SQmYMD6wQBHtJfts0TY-c2aCYUo1Q2 I'll look up shipping for you now and send a PM.

In perfect working condition with relays included. I opened it and inspected it for any water damage (confirming it is in perfect condition) before closing it back up. I then tested it in my cruiser and it worked flawlessly. All relays have been tested and are in great working order. It...

Trying to resolve a door lock issue I purchased this working Body ECU. It works perfect and the issue turned out to be a wiring harness issue and so now I have two perfectly working Body ECU units. If you have any issues with door locks, dashboard acting weird, interior lighting on the fritz...

Dobinson coils C59-167 fits the following setups: $140 picked up in Loveland Colorado 80 Series and Lexus LX450 (1990-1997) – Dobinsons C59-167 2.5″ with up to 220LBS weight, 2″ with 440LB of weight. 100 Series and Lexus LX470 (1998-2007) – Dobinsons C59-167 2″ lift with stock weight (with 3rd...

The 105 may be different; its RHD right? It's likely going to be on the left; your passenger side wheel well Check out the following link; reviewing the portion of the manual for "Body Electrical" https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals

I ordered all of mine through Partsouq as I didn't want to deal with pressing in and out. The only one you have to mess with pulling is the one in the diff housing itself and it comes out easy enough. I'd swap the two assemblies first as they take ten minutes and go for a drive before deciding...

Sorry for the late reply - hopefully this makes it to you. I am working through a different electrical issue on a 100 series, but have enough knowledge to cover this hopefully for you: 1) The part you are looking for is Controller and Junction Instrument Module. On my 2002 LC it is part #...

If you want to save a bunch of money on the springs, I'm selling a set of Dobinson C59-167's with 5k miles on them here in Loveland. $140. I get out to Salida from time to time. Will send you a PM

How is the beam pattern? Do you get glare or do they have a clean cutoff? I don't want to be blinding folks or getting flashed (by oncoming headlights) all the time.

If the shock itself is bad, generally it just saves time to cut the top off with a sawzall vs trying to back nut off. No need to drill a hole in the body work. A 22mm ratcheting wrench makes quick work of installing new rear shocks. Bonus points if it is flex head ratcheting wrench.

That doesn't look like fun.

Those are quintessential u-joint/drive shaft imbalance traits. The only way to confirm is to pull the offending driveshaft. If the vibration goes away, bring it in to have the u-joints installed properly and put it on a balancer. Also would confirm that they mounted the flanges in phase.