Recent content by AcmeSys

the front end is basically all 100% xk50 tundra- there is no LC golden calf wizardry living in there- if they can align a tundra, they can do a LC. your last shop did a s*** alignment. find the place that the SCCA and track or semi trucks guys use. I prefer actual frame shops. their guys...

15' (minutes) is 0.25 degree the reason I prefer zero cross caster is it can conceal issues and for the reason noted above - not all roads are crowned to the right ditch and cross catering generally annoys me when I drive

Yep- And that is the problem. I'm trying to convey this in text and it may not come across but I'll try to cut thru the market'eering since I am stuck at the airport lounge - so I'll try to get this down I dont know your use case so lets assume normal starting battery. Other applicaitons...

Just looking at the carbon build up to be consistent across the jugs and not one that has been steam cleaned by a head gasket leak. The build up happens and PEA based detergents (techron or SI-1) will de-crud the intake valves and pistons without going invasive.

intake stay on. use a compressor and blow any crap out before disassembly but there is no reason to pull the intake - the rail is like 1.5" outboard of the runners- tons of room

Trying to not entertain the AGM rabbit hole again - - if the AGM battery has a lower resistance than a normal flooded cell, why does it need a higher charge voltage?

Piston crowns are not great, not terrible. I'd do some heavy techron treatments for a few tanks and an Italian tuneup just before the next oil change.

Classic leaky injector hot start issue- I've used RC in the past for matching high flow injectors in the past on big turbo and blower engines - never used their cleaning services (too far for me to ship and I have a cleaning stand). Solid shop with a good history. Pulling the rails is easy on...

That is a mouse house in the usual area under the intake Pull a couple more plugs and scope the pistons to see if the carbon levels are about the same across the jugs.

If your tail is out by a degree it is ~1/16" out fore/aft? might be play in bushings or general wear. you can measure the link arms and try to find any noticeable/measurable difference from side to side / pin to pin. the popping could be poly bushings- I generally avoid poly and heim joints...

the rear isnt really adjustable outside of mechanical damage or bushing wear - I'd check it on another rack before doing anything with it. paint pen or torque seal your adjustment cams/bolts after adjustment so you can see if they spin. The LCA cam bolt torque spec is like 200 ftlb so don't...

solid theory. execution/reliability could be an issue or it might work like a champ. i cant find a manual or drawings of the install to see if this is a hardware install or reprogramming an existing CAN device to act as the lockout system? i avoid hacking on OEM harnesses unless you have good...

cross caster is higher than it needs to be. only takes ~15' on most rigs and you can always ask for them to set it to near zero if you are trying to control the variables and diagnose problems. rear end is reading off but I'd throw it on a different machine to confirm it before throwing parts...

verify crank at TDC by putting a piece of wire down the #1 plug hole rotating crank back and forth to get it dead nuts (i use tig rod). doesn't take much to advance or retard the cams to the point you are fighting for 1/2 a tooth on the chains and nothing goes together.

low end of the spec is like 10 psi hot at idle