More Flex Up Front

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12fishy

12fishy

Joined
Jun 18, 2007
Threads
13
Messages
125
Location
Gold Coast Australia.
G'day all,
12fishy from Oz here, and i'm looking for some advise and pointers to get the most out of the front end of the 105... The truck set up is 4in lift by King progressive springs, 6in Tough Dog Adjustable shocks. (swaybars disconnected and all the other gear for the lift.....) So the front is a 3 link now, but what can i do to get more flex out of the front end??? When flexing, the spring starts to leave the spring seat but never it manages to flex out to the full Length of the shock.. See below... Should i get more out of the front or is That it??? Also will it drive like an ass if further mods ane done???

Cheers, fishy
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looks pretty good from here
Maybe a longer shock
How does it drive now?
I dont think I would do any more if you drive it everyday
You dont want a sloppy rig
I wish my 80 flexed like that

Got any pics of the three link up front?
 
Hey mate, I'm from Aus too...

Only way is a X-link/ Crankyline/ superflex arms to stop the castor arm bushes from binding up.

However, you can get a little (and i mean a little) bit more travel by installing the GU slotted rubber castor bushes.

I'm personally leaning towards the X-link style settup as sold by Dobbin Engineering as i can still run the front swaybar for the road. This is more in the future when it becomes an offroad toy and not a daily...
 
You can always do the cheap hitch-pin mod where you use a removable pin on the front bushing location on one of the arms instead of a bolt. Pull the pin and it will open up more flex. The word of caution for this is it puts a lot more strain on the rear mount so it "could" break it. It's been documented on here the gain of flex you get.
 
The OP said he has a 3 link in the front
I would like to see pics of that
There is no way he is getting that kind of flex with a stock setup
 
concretejungle said:
You can always do the cheap hitch-pin mod where you use a removable pin on the front bushing location on one of the arms instead of a bolt. Pull the pin and it will open up more flex. The word of caution for this is it puts a lot more strain on the rear mount so it "could" break it. It's been documented on here the gain of flex you get.
Click to expand...

x2 The next step (IMO) would be a custom 3-Link instead of the stock radius arm set-up. :cheers:
 
That is true I have flexed mine like that as well
But he said he already has a 3 link up front?
 
Hi guys.
Ive lead you all astray, I mean 3 link as 2 x redius arms and 1 Pahnard rod... Thats all for the front diff... The radius arms are stock with 3deg caster and the pahnard rod is longer, (to center diffs with the lifts)...It drives well with the shocks on hard....sloppy on soft (no Brainer)
Hi Harts, i recodnise you from the Aussie forum... I was looking at the X link but i was hoping these guys had a few tricks up their sleeves..lol
The car is stock guys, just disconnect your swaybars and have longer shocks... These shocks are for a 6in lift...
Does any one have a trick up their sleeve??


cheers fishy
 
concretejungle said:
You can always do the cheap hitch-pin mod where you use a removable pin on the front bushing location on one of the arms instead of a bolt. Pull the pin and it will open up more flex. The word of caution for this is it puts a lot more strain on the rear mount so it "could" break it. It's been documented on here the gain of flex you get.
Click to expand...

cheers ill do a search, look at pro's and cons

Fishy
 
Like someone mentioned
You could try the hitch pin mod with one of the radius arms up front
Do a search here on the forum and there should be some good posts on it
 
As has been said Marcus, a proper three link will instantly unlock the front end to flex better than the rear but you wont really be able to drive it around. Super flex arms from superior or the X link style setup will all do wonders.
 
A three link will flex well, but why go through all that trouble and expense, plus lose streetability when you can just swap a bolt with a pin? Pull the pin out to wheel and then slide it back in to go back to stock suspension?
 
I'm wondering if you notice how nice and balanced your rig is in your posted pics? A big rig is far more about balance and predictability with lockers, gearing, and the largest possible tires than about "flex".

Look at those Superior Engineering arms - they keep all of your stock suspension dynamics while reducing the stock bushing design's restricted articulation.

People make way too much of a deal about the front end flex on these rigs. The size and weight issues are much more significant, and IMO the bigger issue on the front end is comfort, because in flatter driving at anything but granny crawl speed you can hit an obstacle and really throw the rig around, which is something that would be mitigated to an extent by the SE arms without introducing geometry concerns with a 3-link.

Still...I am wondering what your actual problem is? I've never had an issue where I thought flex was a problem, but comfort with the rigid front end is definitely an issue where passengers are involved...

Nice rig. You need 37's, though :D
 
hmmm hitchpin mod while strengthening the rear mount?

or keep it as is and buy Superior Arms. Only problem i have heard about is the tie rod contacts the arms, and swaybars cannot be fitted. Hence why i was more considering the X-link approach as it also is half the price!

Have you had a chat to shane from suspension stuff on the east coast? He might have a couple more ideas to throw at you...
 
The flex looks pretty standard. You don't gain much travel doing a lift, all you are doing is lowering the axle 4 inches giving the illusion of more travel. I imagine the opposite front tyre still has 4 inches between the tire and guard.

Super flex arms are a compromise for an on/off road rig. They don't offer full flex though when the front comes unloaded such as driving up a hill. The new ones have provision for sway bar fitting.

Cross link gives the best all out flex, but a lock out pin or sway bar is pretty much essential for on road driving.

a custom 3 link is really only for the diy type who really knows what they're doing. Otherwise cost wise it doesn't work out against an x-link.
 
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