bryan89's cargo area mounted window switch write up

[bryan89]

So, if you are short like me and use the cargo area of the 1st generation 4runner as a handy bed during campouts and trail runs and what not, you will have inevitably noticed that its quite difficult to take a wizz at night if the need strikes....

I will elaborate for those unfamiliar with the situation...
from the factory, the rear window is operated from one of two places: the front console, which requires the key to be in the accessories position, OR, from outside the vehicle at the tailgate with the key, which is always powered.

So, if you are camping in the back of the 4runner and nature calls, obviously the outside key switch is of no help what so ever. So, you would have to crawl out of your sleeping bag, over all of the crap that you moved to the front seats so you could sleep in the back of the truck, find the keys, turn on the ignition and roll down the window, then crawl all the way back to open the tailgate and exit... This can easily piss off the person you are sleeping with and possibly your neighboring camp members depending on how many you had.

so, to remedy this situation, I decided i wanted to add a window switch that was constant hot in the back cargo area of the truck right by the window. it would allow me to simply wake up, roll over, hit the switch and BAM get out of the truck in a hurry if need be..

To accomplish this, rather than cut up my factory harness, i opted to locate all the parts to make a completely plug and play harness for the switch...

Using the stock tailgate harness jack located in the driver rear quarter panel, i created a little jump harness using two duplicate halves of another harness and tapped off the three wires that operate the keyed tailgate switch to operate my rear window switch... it clips in to my factory harness in line with the tailgate harness and I ran the wires up to the top of the cargo panel where my switch will be located..

Wiring is pretty straight forward..all of the wiring is straight through to the other side with the exception of the three wires that have the switch spliced in parallel with the tailgate switch
Here are some pics to help explain.


Ahhhhh relief....

 

[bryan89]

one added note:

the beauty of positioning the switch in the factory harness, where i did is that the factory "safety lockouts" still operate.

Meaning that the rear cargo switch is not powered when the tailgate is open..
not that its a big deal or whatever, but putting it here eliminates the possibility of rolling "out" the rear window when the tailgate is down...this could be beneficial if you have young kids or something that like to push buttons.

if you straight wire it to the window motor, the window control relay box is bypassed and this "safety lockout" feature is no longer operative...

just my two cents.. i like it cause it looks factory and I would imagine that toyota would have done it similarly if they had thought of it in 1988.

Now, if i can just stop getting side tracked and finish making doors for my cargo panels and caps for the top corners I should be good...

what do you guys think??

 

[Bogo]

I like the idea so much I added an interior window control switch on my '95...

I spliced it into the wiring harness in the tailgate it's self, then tucked the switch into the cavity where the inside latch handle goes. I didn't bother with making mine splice in at a connector, but I did crimp on faston connectors, and spliced it in that way. I'd have used in-line splices but I didn't have any on hand when I did the work. All the splices got covered with sealing type heatshrink tubing. Make sure the wires don't get in the way of the window mechanism. I used a combination of creative routing, cable ties, and sick on cable clamps to keep them out of the way for the window and window mechanism.. While in there don't forget to lube the window mechanism.

What I want is an auto up and auto down circuit. That way when I stop the truck to get out and mend a fence, I can just push down, and by the time I get out and walk to the back, the window is fully down.

 

[bryan89]

cool idea bogo.
i didnt think of putting it in the tailgate...got any pics of how it turned out?


i also like the idea of the auto up/down...im not sure how they do that in production cars today though, just to get an idea of where to start...

do they monitor current in the window motor and shut it off when they see it spike or something?

i know the 4runner uses limit switches as logic for the window control relay module to kill /add power to the window motor..so you might be able to utilize the logic already built into the truck to accomplish this..


if you could come up with a switch that was attached to a latching relay that was controlled by the limit switch to turn the relay off, that might work.

 

[Bogo]

I didn't take any pics at the time. Without pulling it apart , all I could show is just a small format momentary rocker switch cut into the plastic of the handle area.

 

[IVrunner]

I love this idea but would like more info on what wires you tapped into on the factory harness and what wires from the switch you ties them to.

 

[KLF]

i also like the idea of the auto up/down...im not sure how they do that in production cars today though, just to get an idea of where to start...

do they monitor current in the window motor and shut it off when they see it spike or something?

i know the 4runner uses limit switches as logic for the window control relay module to kill /add power to the window motor..so you might be able to utilize the logic already built into the truck to accomplish this..


if you could come up with a switch that was attached to a latching relay that was controlled by the limit switch to turn the relay off, that might work.

The "Auto" feature used on many cars these days is a lot more complicated than simple limit switches. It may be based on current being drawn by the motor, but not only on the limits of travel, but anywhere while it is moving. The Auto function has to have a "pinch detect" that stops the window from moving and usually reverses it, if it senses something in the way (like... a kid's body part). It would be very difficult to install in an old rear window.

 

[IVrunner]

Anyone know the wire combo? I would like to get this done this weekend and would love to avoid the trial and error of a test light

Thanks!