Vacuum Shut Off Valve

[boogie74]

Hi Mudders,

I have a faulty Vacuum Shut Off Valve. I'm looking for the part number or somewhere to buy one. Its the vacuum operated valve that bolts to the intake and shuts the engine off that im after.

My engine will kick over but not run. I think this is because the diaphram in the shut off valve is knackerd. I've dissconected the vacuum hose so it still runs.

If anyone could help that would be great.

Cheers,

Gav.

 

[Hulsty]

Tried toyota? Could scoure a wreckers, surely a camry or something has the same part in there somewhere.

 

[boogie74]

I thought the dashpot/shut off valve was toasted but the vacuum is working in reverve on it. When it should stop vacuum the vsv is allowing vacuum to shut don't the engine. That's why it cranks over then shut off. It's like the vsv is reversing the vacuum.

I'll pick up a vsv off another toyo and see how it goes, mines 24v but it shouldn't matter for a vsv. I'll
move it up on the firewall while I'm at it.

Cheers,
Gav

 

[boogie74]

I don't think any other toyo vsv will fit for this application so I'm hopefully going to find one at a wreckers or at worst get one from Toyota(190bucks) ouch. If anyone has retro fitted some other vsv it would be good to know about it but otherwise I'll have to go with one of my other options. I will still mount it high in the engine bay to aviod this problem in the future.

Awesome trucks these, it's a pitty such a small component can stuff thing up. Still useable but a pita to get out and shut it of manually everytime I drive it. The vac system is the weakest link inthe bj74. The rest is rock solid and I love it.

 

[jake2far]

I thought the dashpot/shut off valve was toasted but the vacuum is working in reverve on it. When it should stop vacuum the vsv is allowing vacuum to shut don't the engine. That's why it cranks over then shut off. It's like the vsv is reversing the vacuum.

I'll pick up a vsv off another toyo and see how it goes, mines 24v but it shouldn't matter for a vsv. I'll
move it up on the firewall while I'm at it.

Cheers,
Gav

Some thoughts to consider.
The vacuum pot closes the shut off valve by having vacuum applied to it from the VSV valve when you turn the key off, the normal VSV is no power, vacuum passing thru to the pot. If the key is off and the motor dies the VSV is working (at least in this mode).
The rig has been off (no vacuum being generated) the vacuum pot and VSV has no source of vacuum except stored vacuum, when you turn the key it should shift the VSV to vent the vacuum stored in the pot and lines from the pot to the VSV, the vent allows the pot to open the shutter which allows the engine to run, either the VSV is not shifting or the vent is plugged. If the vent is plugged it will not allow the shutter to open, when you pull the hose off the pot you are making a vent.
The vent (since I don't know what rig you have) could have a filter (very small) pushed on the end of a nipple on the VSV or a rubber tube over to the intake hose between the air filter and the turbo (if you have one) or the intake tube.
If the VSV filter is plugged or the vent hose is pinched or plugged it will not allow your motor to run.
The VSV could also not be shifting. the power supply could not be making it to the VSV (the VSV shifts to run with power) if you have a broken wire or a bad ground the VSV will not shift to the run position (venting the pot).
I hope this helps.


Jim

 

[boogie74]

Thanks Jim,

The vsv is making vacuum when the engine is running and shutting the engine down stright after startup. I have replaced all the vac lines to the vsv and shut off valve to eliminate vac line failure. Next is to check power and continuity of the vsv. There is mud and crud visible around the vsv after a 4wd sesh in the bush through big mud holes that were halve way up the doors so it am pretty sure the faliare is related to this.

When I turn the ingnition to acc the valve slugishly opens the valve to the run position. Then when it starts immediately goes to the off position. It's creating a good vacuum but at the wrong time. That's why I'm thinking is a faulty vsv. It's not opening or closing as it should.

I think I'm on the right track but anyone can feel free to correct me.

Anyway if I have time after work I'm going to pull the vsv, which is in a bugger of a place down near the starter motor, and see if I can clean it up enough to get it working again before I fork out for a new one. The 11, 13, 14 and 15b motors all have this vsv. 90910-12020 or ending in 21, 22 or 23. Also found in dyna trucks and coaster buses.

Cheers.

 

[boogie74]

I removed the vsv and the main body of it was split and filled with crap. Power was getting the the vsv but it had no continuity. The good thing is I have found a JDM 24V BJ73 and can get the 4x4 vsv of it. Its 24V so should work well. I wasn't keen on putting a 12V camry one in cause its 12V and my 24V electrics would most likey kill it.

The new vsv is going to live high on the fire wall to aviod this problem in the future.

Cheers.

 

[boogie74]

Sorry for perpetuating this thread. Its keeping me busy and might come in handy to someone someday

I found a VSV:

This one is off a JDM 24V BJ73. This is the vsv for the idle up on the air conditioner compressor. Same beast as the vsv for engine shut down valve. I couldn't use a 12V cause my truck is 24V. 24V is a pain in the ass in Australia. Anyway got one and will scavenge a alternator and starter when funds allow.

I will add to John from Radd Cruiser VSV help thread on the relocation and install of the VSV if he doesn't mind.

Cheers All,

Gav.

 

[70sguy]

I don't think the AC VSV is going to work?
AC VSV is a normally closed valve, as in No volts=no vacuum to the diaphragm= no shut down engine
IIRC, Shut down VSV on a 13B-T is a normally open valve, as in No volts=vacuum to diaphragm=shut down engine

 

[boogie74]

I put the AC VSV in yesterday afternoon. I moved the vsv, wiring and vac hoses up high in the engine bay next to the power steering resevior. It works great just as it's supposed to.

Initially I think I had the vac hoses around the wrong way (even though I studied the vac piping diagram
for a while) but I swapped them over at the vsv and it worked. I think the vac system is working better now to cause there may have been a small leak as the old vsv was split.

 

[70sguy]

Well there you go...you learn something new every day.
So the AC VSV you have shuts when it has volts then?

 

[HEMIDOG]

Hi Boogie, Sounds like you sorted the VSV for a reasonable price. I was chasing an intermittent no start for months on my Middie before we narrowed it down the VSV. Originally thought it was the starter and then fuel pump before we found it would start and run when you disconnect the vacuum from the valve. A new one from Toyota was $180 and since I bought it it has been sitting on the dash and the old one hasn't played up at all!

 

[Fatbob]

I might have one kicking around if someone needs one still.

 

[hotgemini]

Thread dig!

Thought I'd add some discussion here rather than make a new thread. My BJ74 developed the same issue the other day, which I temporarily resolved by removing and plugging the line at the shut-off butterfly diaphragm until I could take a look this weekend.

Removed the VSV from the car, cleaned it up with brake clean and a toothbrush so I could see what I was dealing with.

There are three fittings on the VSV, one on it's lonesome is the vacuum feed from around the back of the block. Of the two fittings side by side, the fitting closer to the body of the VSV is connected to the shut-off diaphragm and the other is I presume a vent line.

With no power supplied, the two fittings side by side are connected to each other and the inlet fitting is blocked.

With power supplied, the vent fitting is blocked and the diaphragm is connected to the inlet.

Or so it should be, with no power supplied, my valve was still in the 'on' position. So I made a little power supply so I could power it up while cleaning it, an eight D-cell battery pack, some heavy duty speaker wire and some narrow F-crimps left over from something (speaker install?).

A bit of sucking, blowing and tapping 12v onto the solenoid pins had it unstuck in about 20 seconds. I've then pushed some silicone spray through it in every direction in both the on and off positions in the hope of delaying the return of the issue.

Reinstalled and she works fine, I'll order a new one regardless and consider relocating it higher up onto the firewall. Will report back if I have any issues with my 'refurbished' valve in the interim.

 

[SquamSquatch]

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