Water Pump Selection

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Mar 10, 2007
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I've gone through all the parts of my cooling system, and all that is left is the water pump. I installed a new one with my rebuild a year ago. That pump's brand was NPW, Nissan. I've collected several others and am not sure which is oem. The original pump I pulled off didn't have a brand, and looked like the upper darker one in the pictures. The other one is a Teq/Aisin pump.
IMG_0282.webp
IMG_0283.webp
IMG_0285.webp
 
If you're asking which is OEM, it's the Aisin.

I wouldn't use anything but OEM.

The one at 9 o'clock in the top pic looks like GMB.
 
NPW, GMB, Aisin etc. are all good pumps if they are of Japanese origin. Chinese pumps are of very mixed qualities... some are very good, others are not.

Genuine GMB and NPW will have that casted into them.

~John.
 
The npw has japan cast into it. Well darn, thought I had this overheating thing figured out. Thermostat opens, radiator was flushed with muriatic per markW's instruction, oil and coolant are clean, fan clutch was just refilled with 7000cst, leak down didn't show bubbles in rad neck. What else is there?
 
Is your rad cap correct and new? (0.9 bar, typically)

Is coolant purging from the system?

Were you getting warm air from the heater vents with the heater on?

Does your fan have resistance when it's warm, hot, cold?

Are your belts properly tightened?

Is the fan shroud in place?

Is your rad plugged internally or externally?

Do you have the correct type of thermostat installed?

Are you sure it's actually overheating? (don't trust the factory gauge)

When does it overheat? (highway, around town, idling in your drive)

How long does it take to get to that temperature? (how long and at what speeds)

~John
 
Thanks for the help John;

Is your rad cap correct and new? (0.9 bar, typically)
It is OEM, .9 bar, unknown age.
Is coolant purging from the system?
Coolant is not purging.
Were you getting warm air from the heater vents with the heater on?
Lukewarm at idle, hot at higher rpm>>900
Does your fan have resistance when it's warm, hot, cold?
Stiffest when hot, looser when warm, loosest when very hot; still moves air though.
Are your belts properly tightened?

Belts not loose, not super tight either.
Is the fan shroud in place?
Fan shroud installed.
Is your rad plugged internally or externally?
I don't think the rad is plugged anywhere; both air and coolant flow freely. Fins are in good shape, and it flowed exceptionally well after the acid flush.
Do you have the correct type of thermostat installed?
Thermostat is a "motorad" 185 degree all brass unit. Opens at temp.
Are you sure it's actually overheating? (don't trust the factory gauge)
Readings were taken off an aftermarket electric unit with degree units installed in the factory sensor port in the head.
When does it overheat? (highway, around town, idling in your drive)
It used to only overheat on the off ramp after driving at least an hour at ~75mph. Lately it has escalated to reaching 212* after idling for 7-10 minutes in ~50* weather.
How long does it take to get to that temperature? (how long and at what speeds)
In the highway off ramp situation, less than 2 minutes. Very quick. I would exit the highway, be hot, let it idle at the pump. Refill time of about 2 minutes, and leave the station. In less than a half mile, the temp would be back down 200*, as if rpm helped circulate the coolant or airflow was needed.
 
Accurate electronic gauges (temp, oil press, whatever except volts & amps) are very expensive (several hundred dollars each). Mechanicals are more accurate, especially for the price.

If it's showing 210* & not puking when you turn it off your gauge is crap.
 
Water Pump Selection ??
Is the question ?

But the end question could be ?
Im using coolant / water / overheating ?

Why make an assumption , when the problem could be put up also.

Kinda like the questions so often from ?


What dose a water pump do ? 3 different don't make much difference besides time of dying.
Whats the real problem ?

VT
 
Where are folks reading their temps from? What are some temp ranges people are getting?

The new pump solved an idle overheating issue according to the aftermarket gauge; but same story for the highway. I'm going to put the stock sender back in tomorrow. The gauge showed 240* today at the highway gas station, but the engine sure didn't feel like that pulling out.
 
Check your valve timing. Advanced timing can cause a run hot condition. Especially if on the bumped up side of advanced. Usually a few degrees advanced won't affect it that much. Some folks get radical with it though.
 
Where are folks reading their temps from? What are some temp ranges people are getting?

The new pump solved an idle overheating issue according to the aftermarket gauge; but same story for the highway. I'm going to put the stock sender back in tomorrow. The gauge showed 240* today at the highway gas station, but the engine sure didn't feel like that pulling out.

240 degrees seems way too hot.
 
240 degrees seems way too hot.

Absolutely. My gauge must be off. I have a mixture of ~50/50 coolant to distilled water in the system. The cap is .9 bar, which equals ~1 atm. The boiling point of 50/50 is 223*, and I was not boiling in the overflow tank or the radiator when the gauge read >223...hmmm
 
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