Aftermarket Fuel Guages (1 Viewer)

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I am looking at aftermarket guages for a new dash. The guages all seem to want a fuel sender to put out:

Range: Empty=240 Ohm, Full=33 Ohm

What will it take to get one of these to work in a '71 FJ?

Steve

P.S. Did a bit of searching, but no answers...
 
Autometer makes senders in various ohm ranges that are fairly easy to adapt to your fuel tank.
 
It might be easier to adapt Downeys digital sender to your factory tank since Downeys or the gauge company's both have a different bolt pattern than your factory sender (i.e. either way you have to redrill the top of the tank). The advantage with our digital sender is (a) it is adjustable to fine-tune the 240/33 ohms, and (b) it does not use a swing arm with float well out from the center of the tank, it merely probes straight down in the center. The center is where the gas is always the deepest, particularly in turns, consequently you get less sweep (movement) of the needle when gas is sloshing around. Just a thought!!!!!
 
I read a post once about combining autometer and stock senders into one unit to work with autometer gauges. I've searched for it with no success. I'll be watching this thread since I'm in the process of installing autometers myself.
 
Thanks John, that's exactly what I was looking for. My stock cap's a little different, it has two male spade connectors for sender and ground. I'll have to go check it out. I'm the guy who told you at the Stockton swap meet that I'd just bought gauges, otherwise I'd have bought yours.
 
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To get the Autometer sender to fit the stock location, all I had to do was "ovalize" some of the holes in the sender flange to match up with the threaded mounting holes in the tank. I used a dremel and it took about 20 minutes, was able to use the stock mounting screws. Easy and surprisingly clean intall.

Here is the sender I used - 240/33 ohms. The flange diameter is virtually identical to the stock sender's flange. I got mine off ebay for about 20 bucks.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...1&part=ATM-3262&N=700+300173+115&autoview=sku
 
I wish I could say that I was ready now to make use of this info. It does sound as if it isn't all that hard. In my case I am thinking of cutting out the dash and replacing it with a full width aluminum panel. I am about ready mentally to do it, but I really wanted to fit a full roll cage first, straight down to the floor and not following the shape of the dash. Then I was thinking of tubes going across to mount the new dash to.

So, at this point I am only researching and planning...
Thanks for all the tips!
 

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