100_Series Aux. Tank Install

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mobi-arc

mobi-arc

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www.perfectswitch.com
I'm in the middle of installing the Long Range Automotive aux. fuel tank and am having hose issues. Standard fuel filler hoses come in 1/4 inch increments and the aux tank install calls for 1 3/8 and 1 5/8 pieces. I went to an industrial hose supply house today and I was able to get my hands on those odd-ball sizes but they have heavy wire inserted within the hose which makes it very rigid and when you clamp with a hose clamp, that wire doesn't allow for a tight seal. It's low pressure, but that industrial hose is not a long term solution. Anybody who's tackled this install, any thoughts on how to deal with is, or any suggestions as to where to source straight reduction couplers and/or pliable, odd-ball sizes like those denoted above.

Thanks in advance.

Scott
stolper@perfectswitch.com
 
Try San Diego Marine Exchange

That is where i got mine.

The 80 install uses 1 5/8" and i used the super heavy duty USCG approved stuff with the metal wire in it!

Yes, the metal wire makes it rigid, but i have 2 superduty hoseclamps on it and so far have filled and drained the aux tank 3 times with zero leaks, works great!

Pic Of My Setup (dont mind the wording):
IMG_0549.JPG


I know another guy using the same stuff with no problems!

I have approx 2 ft left over from my install.

Call me tomorrow after 4pm

thanks
 
Boston Mangler said:
Try San Diego Marine Exchange

That is where i got mine.

The 80 install uses 1 5/8" and i used the super heavy duty USCG approved stuff with the metal wire in it!

Yes, the metal wire makes it rigid, but i have 2 superduty hoseclamps on it and so far have filled and drained the aux tank 3 times with zero leaks, works great!

Pic Of My Setup (dont mind the wording):
IMG_0549.JPG


I know another guy using the same stuff with no problems!

I have approx 2 ft left over from my install.

Call me tomorrow after 4pm

thanks
Click to expand...


We think that wire won't allow for a long-term tight seal. You can use those hose clamps and crank them down, but that wire doesn't compress. What may happen is as the rubber ages, that wire will eventually be a leaking point.
 
calamaridog said:
Did you decide to do the install yourself or did you find a local mechanic?

Either way, good luck!
Click to expand...

Local mechanic and wow, that was a good choice. Fairly major project...way outside of my skills.
 
Good points about the wire, but if so, why would it be used in marine fuel applications (arguably harsher environments than what our vehicles would normally see, especially in salt water)? I also have the "wired" hose. The wire is concentric, not lengthwise, so I see very little chance of a leak developing, but I'm always looking for more info!

Thanks,
 
dclee said:
Good points about the wire, but if so, why would it be used in marine fuel applications (arguably harsher environments than what our vehicles would normally see, especially in salt water)? I also have the "wired" hose. The wire is concentric, not lengthwise, so I see very little chance of a leak developing, but I'm always looking for more info!

Thanks,
Click to expand...

On the hose that I have, which is the coast guard approved marine stuff, the wire spirols so there's no way to clamp without clamping over the wire.
 
calamaridog said:
What type of clamps do they use in marine applications if the hose is marine stuff?
Click to expand...


Not sure. Have to find out. Your typical hose clamps will strip if you crank on them too hard and even when you tighten them smartly, it's still easy to twist.

Scott
 
calamaridog said:
What type of clamps do they use in marine applications if the hose is marine stuff?
Click to expand...

20 yrs ago, I worked in the marine hardware business and never saw anything other than stainless hose clamps for attaching anything from hoses to accessories to stainless railing. Not sure if anything's changed now, though.
 
Why have the wire spirals inside. This is generally used to stop collapse on tight bends or on the suction side of an application so that the hose does not collapse. Fuel tanks have generally positive a pressure in them, so thats no likely to happen.

You can get fuel hose that has the spiral wire loose inside the hose such that this will go inside the metal tubes at either end or end just prior to the metal tube. I would suggest that trying to clamp the wire with the hose is likely to lead to an unhappy outcome unless the hose was made to that set length, in which case the manufacturer has dealt with the problem.

Donald
 
Jim_Chow said:
20 yrs ago, I worked in the marine hardware business and never saw anything other than stainless hose clamps for attaching anything from hoses to accessories to stainless railing. Not sure if anything's changed now, though.
Click to expand...


Funny you should mention that. I found this when I was looking for clamps:

http://www.titan-marine-hardware.com/titanium-hose-clamps.htm
 
dinibili said:
Why have the wire spirals inside. Donald
Click to expand...

These are odd-ball id's for the US market and as such, hose options with the correct ID have and integrated wire for rigidity. You're correct, we don't need the rigidity but 1 3/8 and 1 5/8 fuel rated hose options that I've located all have that wire.
 
Hi guys, Im new here, but I have an idea that might solve your clamp problem. Im coming from the world of boosted rotaries, and this is something that some of the guys there use:

http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=232

Scroll down to the bottom of the page, you are looking for T-Bolt style clamps. They have a greater clamping force than the standard worm-drive.
 
Yep....that's what we went with and so far, so good. We'll see how it seals over the next six months or so.


F0RSAKEN said:
Hi guys, Im new here, but I have an idea that might solve your clamp problem. Im coming from the world of boosted rotaries, and this is something that some of the guys there use:

http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=232

Scroll down to the bottom of the page, you are looking for T-Bolt style clamps. They have a greater clamping force than the standard worm-drive.
Click to expand...
 
Well, here's the update. The dual filler neck purchased from SOR is designed for the 80-series, not the 100-series. This was confirmed by Darren at ATS in Australia. It may be too late to reverse that aspect of the installation....it goes without saying that I'm disappointed that things won't be as clean as they should be and it probably cost me a lot more money in unnecessary fabrication time battling to make an 80-series part fit in a 100-series. So this a warning for others who may tackle this aux. tank install.......make sure you have the 100-series dual filler neck and be suspect of information that SOR provides with respect to the dual filler neck. At this point, I'm quite frustrated as SOR's bad information is much worse than no information.
 
mobi-arc said:
Well, here's the update. The dual filler neck purchased from SOR is designed for the 80-series, not the 100-series. This was confirmed by Darren at ATS in Australia. It may be too late to reverse that aspect of the installation....it goes without saying that I'm disappointed that things won't be as clean as they should be and it probably cost me a lot more money in unnecessary fabrication time battling to make an 80-series part fit in a 100-series. So this a warning for others who may tackle this aux. tank install.......make sure you have the 100-series dual filler neck and be suspect of information that SOR provides with respect to the dual filler neck. At this point, I'm quite frustrated as SOR's bad information is much worse than no information.
Click to expand...


I have had similar experiences with the sales droids at SOR. Probably why I don't buy from them (now, I think they probably know heaps about 40s, 55s, and 60s, but I don't own one of those...). MAF has been much more knowledgable in my experience with the later model wagons.

FYI, I think the differences in the fill necks are these:

1.) Early 80 Series, fill tubes in line (horizontal) with push/pull rod to select which fill tube.

2.) Late 80 Series, fill tubes offset from each other with push/pull rod to select which fill tube.

3.) 100 Series, looks similar to late 80 Series (fill tubes offset) but only a single wide fill mouth, no rod to select which tank to be filled (so you basically fill both until they both top out, as they are T-'d into the same vent system).
 
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