The Ultimate Tow Package (can someone double check my research?) (1 Viewer)

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Aug 28, 2006
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Hey guys- I recently purchased a 2003 LX470 for my tow vehicle/wife's daily driver. I will be towing a 20' steel trailer and my S2000 or MR2. I am putting together a list of what I need for the safest towing package. I searched and read through innumerable threads on here, and made a list through e-trailer. Maybe some of you more knowledgeable folks can tell me what I might be missing and will need.

Also, I found threads where people reported problems with the 2003+ wiring harness and trailers with batteries. My truck has the factory 7-pin connector under the driver's side rear bumper. I assume if I am not running a battery on the trailer, I do not need to be concerned with this issue? There is a battery there for the safety breakaway kit. I am wondering if I need to buy a battery isolator from e-trailer as well. I am hoping to order this stuff all at once so I don't wind up needing multiple shipments!

E-trailer list:

Draw-Tite Class III Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver Hitch : 75095

Tekonsha PRODIGY Brake Controller - Proportional : 90185

Tekonsha Wire Replacement for Toyota and Lexus Vehicles : 3040-P

Strait-Line Weight Distribution Hitch System 1,200 lbs. TW / 12,000 lbs. GTW : 66074

Reese Weight Distributing Shank : 63970

Forged Ballmount 1" Rise or 2" Drop, 12,000 lbs. : 40330

E-Track Trailer Cargo Control - 5' Hoziontal : E19148

E-Track Plastic End Cap : ET8730

Adjustable Wheel Net with E-Track Fittings (Each) : 77314

Titan Trailer Hitch Ball 2-5/16" x 1-1/4" x 2-3/4" - 14,000 lbs. : 63836 $24

Superwinch T2000 Winch, 2K : 1220200

Winch Trailer Wiring Kit, for up to 4K Winches : SW1520

Car Tie Down, 2" x 7' 10K with Ratchet and Twisted Flat Hooks : 08504

Adapter 7 Pole to 6 Pole & 4 Pole with Cover - Universal : 37565
 
Looks like a good comprehensive list to me. I don't see that you've missed anything. I use the Takinosha Prodigy and I really like it a lot. Very smooth and the boost feature is sweet.
 
To be honest, if you don't want the battery feedback (and any other associated problems), I recommend a new set of wiring front to back. Doing your own will assure you more confidence.

On the other hand the battery on the trailer should in no way be connected to the vehicle. The emergency breakaway switch on the trailer is what activates the battery on the trailer for the brakes. On travel trailers, the connection is due to on-board converters and batter chargers that power appliances and accessories during travel, as well as maintain battery charge. A simple braking battery should not be connected to the 7-pin plug, since there is no general current draw.

One other item I recommend is a box to attach the 7-pin connector to. Etrailer sells them to attach the connector to the hitch frame. I have the same hitch and the box and connector attach to the angled part of the frame on the driver's side, almost out of sight under the bumper. A great location and out of the way too. Otherwise it sounds like a good list. Good Luck!
 
Thanks for the help guys.

I take it the factory 7-pin mount can't be used with the aftermarket hitch? If not, I will definitely order one of those boxes.

How does the battery for the breakaway kit maintain its charge over time, if it is not connected to the truck at all? Even with low draw it must eventually fade and would make it unsafe.

I am told that the winch also needs a battery (can I use one battery for the winch/breakaway?) If these electrical concerns only affect me with a winch, I may scratch the idea and get a hand-winch. I don't need any other electrics on my trailer at all.


I saw that many recommended completely new wiring front to rear. But with a factory harness mounted under the bumper as it comes, it kills me to have to go through that much trouble. If my only concern is $75 for a decent battery isolator, I will take that lazy route instead. If you tell me even that won't make me safe, I will do the wiring the hard way and/or scratch the winch.
 
How does the battery for the breakaway kit maintain its charge over time, if it is not connected to the truck at all? Even with low draw it must eventually fade and would make it unsafe.

I am told that the winch also needs a battery (can I use one battery for the winch/breakaway?) If these electrical concerns only affect me with a winch, I may scratch the idea and get a hand-winch. I don't need any other electrics on my trailer at all.

Oops, my mistake - I forgot about the winch. The standard battery for the brakes is likely very small (like a mower battery). To answer the first question, you simply bench charge it periodically. To run a winch, you need more power, like a full size deep cycle battery, which you would connect to the tow vehicle. For that, you should use an isolator to be sure. Hand winches work well, but an electric one is definitely easier and cooler.
 
And where are people mounting the brake controller? It is rather ugly.
 
And where are people mounting the brake controller? It is rather ugly.

I have a cheapo unit mounted to the left of the steering column, above the hood release. Some have found smaller models fit in the ashtray location. That's where I am headed with mine, if I don't put a CB in that location.
 
Have you checked out the "Hensley Arrow" hitch? Expensive, but...take a look if you haven't already!
 
A little too pricey for me... and the parts I am buying will cover weight distribution and anti-sway, so I should be safe.
 
Tekonsha has a new brake controller they claim is even better than the Prodigy.

Tekonsha P3

p3_productshot.jpg
 
And where are people mounting the brake controller? It is rather ugly.

Remove the ashtray and you have a perfect fit for the Prodigyunit. Its a wedge fit no fasteners required. It can be unplugged and stored in the glove box when not in use.
 
Ahhhh genious, thanks! I am curious to see how it will actually look, I would leave it there if it isn't too ugly. I have no use for an ashtray anyway.
 
I haven't towed with my 100, but the 80 was greatly improved with air bags inside the rear coils. I used to tow 100 miles every week for my job, so the difference was very apparent. Other guys had the same to say.
 
Couple of questions on the prodigy in the ashtray...

I did not want to drill the back of the ashtray housing blind to get the wiring through- I could not remove the trim piece that surrounds the ashtray slot and holds the cig lighter- the top clips came undone but not the bottom and I didn't want to break it.

Also, will the ashtray slide back in after you disconnect the prodigy? Does the clip on the wiring interfere with the ashtray fitting back in there?
 

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