Why I waited till 130K to service my timing belt

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LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION….so calm down:flipoff2:

My major findings:

At 130K like a lot of 100 owners my water pump was starting to leak. The FSM wants you to replace the TB if it comes in contact with any water or oil. With that said if I would of changed MY TB at the recommended 90K I would be changing it again when the WP goes bad. My cam tensioner pulley was also loose but not leaking and lightly rough to the turn. A bad pulley will cause uneven wear or worst case a TB break. Both requiring TB replacement. I'm not sure the pulley would have made it another 50K to the next recommended TB service.

There is a lot of information out there to support other parts that are associated with the timing belt service that will go bad between 125K and 180K causing failure. No info that supports the TB failing 90K or at any mileage for that matter. So MY conclusion was if I replaced just the TB at 90K (as recommended) everything else would have looked good but I would have had a failure prior to the next TB service at 180K.

Overview of 130K TB service:

TB – Using the guidelines of the FSM on an inspection of a TB…MY TB did not need replacing even at 130K. No noticeable cracking, no teeth damage, no premature parting, and no uneven wear. Replaced
TB pulleys – cam tensioner pulley was loose but not leaking and lightly rough to the turn. Replaced both pulleys
WP – Showed evidence of leaking. Never would have made to 180K. Replaced
Cam tensioned – showed no signs of leaking. No action
Seals – cam seals and crank seal showed no signs of leaking. Replaced
Drive belt pulley – Bearing loose and very ruff while turning. Never would have made to 180K. Replaced
Drive belt – dry looking and noticeable cracking. Should have been replaced prior to service. I do carry a spare.:D Replaced
T-Stat – looked good but splurged and replaced it.
Coolant - looked clean, did not test condition. Replaced

In conclusion do your own research and find your comfort zone
MVC-775S.webp
MVC-776S.webp
MVC-777S.webp
 
i did my t-belt at about 95k....did not do the water pump in hopes that it would not crap out anytime soon....i've got about 116k now but i've been inspecting it at every oil change...lets see how long i can go
 
Mine's getting the overhall this weekend, at 132K. I'll have to compare my finding manana when done.
 
No info that supports the TB failing 90K or at any mileage for that matter.

I think there was a guy over at Tundrasolutions.com that had a 2UZ 4.7 motor which his timing belt broke at just past 90k. I think there was one other guy. Seach "can't stop crying" or something like that.
 
I think there was a guy over at Tundrasolutions.com that had a 2UZ 4.7 motor which his timing belt broke at just past 90k. I think there was one other guy. Seach "can't stop crying" or something like that.

If I remember the thread correctly the dealership said that some foreign material was involved.
 
A mechanic I am by no means, I know just enough to get myself in trouble (same with electricity.)

If the TB fails, is there a possibility of collateral damage to the engine?

Gary


There's almost a certainty of it.
 
TB pulleys – cam tensioner pulley was loose but not leaking and lightly rough to the turn. Replaced both pulleys

LCPhil,
this is the part I was worried about, that the tensioner is the part that actually fails (not the TB) and thus causing the same damage.

Maybe the 90K interval is to account for the possible failure of the tensioner, not necessarily the belt?
just more thoughts... btw, if the 120K interval was correct than I don't see 130k far off the mark.
 
LCPhil,
this is the part I was worried about, that the tensioner is the part that actually fails (not the TB) and thus causing the same damage.

Maybe the 90K interval is to account for the possible failure of the tensioner, not necessarily the belt?snip
.


yes, but I don't think Toy suggests to replace the tensioner at 90K together with the TB. They could be counting on the tech inspecting it, but that is a long shot...
 
LCPhil,
this is the part I was worried about, that the tensioner is the part that actually fails (not the TB) and thus causing the same damage.

Maybe the 90K interval is to account for the possible failure of the tensioner, not necessarily the belt?
just more thoughts... btw, if the 120K interval was correct than I don't see 130k far off the mark.

Water pump will be the first to go after 90K based on my research resulting replacement of the TB again. Remember no water or oil on the TB.

90K is the recommended TB service for my 100. I dont know if true for all 100's but I would guess so.

yes, but I don't think Toy suggests to replace the tensioner at 90K together with the TB. They could be counting on the tech inspecting it, but that is a long shot...

FSM does not suggest or recommend replacing anything with the TB, only inspection. There is 2 parts to the tensioner, the bearing assembly (I replaced), and the actual tensioner. Per FSM 3 test for the tensioner. 1- If not leaking no replacement required. Faintest trace of oil on the rod side around seal is OK. 2 – Use hand presure and push to see if the rod moves. If so replace. 3 – Measure the protrusion of the rod, if in spec no replacement needed. Care should be taken when removing and reinstalling the tensioner.

The bad part is all the parts that can go bad resulting in TB failure are not able to be seen without a lot of disassembly. With that said I inspected everything with a great amount of attention in the hopes I will be given my next report at 260K.
 
I got my timing belt and water pump done right at 131K. I was scared as hell, but kept putting it off. $568 later and it's all done.

$568 is a very good price.
Was anything else changed along with the TB and WP?
 
$568 is a very good price.
Was anything else changed along with the TB and WP?

Nope, just those two. At least that's what the receipt reflects. It was a 6-7 hr. job. And not bad for a dealership who doesn't normally lend out loaner cars like they did for me.

Now that I read your first post, I doubt they did any of those others mentioned. I would have expected them to let me know of other components that would be needing replacement as they came across them but didn't receive anything from my service guy except that my Cruiser was ready for pickup.
 
FSM does not suggest or recommend replacing anything with the TB, only inspection. There is 2 parts to the tensioner, the bearing assembly (I replaced), and the actual tensioner. Per FSM 3 test for the tensioner. 1- If not leaking no replacement required. Faintest trace of oil on the rod side around seal is OK. 2 – Use hand presure and push to see if the rod moves. If so replace. 3 – Measure the protrusion of the rod, if in spec no replacement needed. Care should be taken when removing and reinstalling the tensioner.

The bad part is all the parts that can go bad resulting in TB failure are not able to be seen without a lot of disassembly. With that said I inspected everything with a great amount of attention in the hopes I will be given my next report at 260K.

I'm impressed, good ol' Toyota basically made a lifetime tensioner system.:beer:

I wonder how much this part is and if it's worth just replacing along w/ the belt (if it's not expensive). Kind of the "as long as it's all open, might as well..."
 
Nope, just those two. At least that's what the receipt reflects. It was a 6-7 hr. job. And not bad for a dealership who doesn't normally lend out loaner cars like they did for me.

Now that I read your first post, I doubt they did any of those others mentioned. I would have expected them to let me know of other components that would be needing replacement as they came across them but didn't receive anything from my service guy except that my Cruiser was ready for pickup.

Unless it was a dealership special I would think that they would have replaced everything they thought was close to bad to get your $$$.

Lexus gave me a loaner car when I had my 80 detailed. They said they wanted me to move over to Lexus. So I told them they should give me a LX470 because I dont buy cars......I got a car:frown:
 
I'm impressed, good ol' Toyota basically made a lifetime tensioner system.:beer:

I wonder how much this part is and if it's worth just replacing along w/ the belt (if it's not expensive). Kind of the "as long as it's all open, might as well..."

I dont know if I go as far as lifetime.

I used the "not so expensive card" on the T-stat:D I'm kinda (real) cheap
 
i did my t-belt at about 95k....did not do the water pump in hopes that it would not **** out anytime soon....i've got about 116k now but i've been inspecting it at every oil change...lets see how long i can go

how do you inspect the water pump? what do you look for?
 
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